Monday, May 10, 2010

Quick Notes

I've sniffed a lot of fragrances lately. None have compelled me to write full glowing reviews but many have been better than average.

Atelier Grand Neroli
I’ve been impressed with the Atelier line. They are all (except Bois Blond, I haven’t tried that one yet) refreshing cologne-type scents with better than average longevity for colognes. Their marketing states that they have high percentages of essential oil/fragrance so I guess we ought to expect better longevity.
Grand Neroli is a nice refreshing orange blossom with only a little soapy quality. Overall it’s very good. If you already have several neroli/orange blossom scents which you like then there’s no need to try this. But if you adore neroli and can’t have enough of them then you ought to try Grand Neroli.

Atellier Oolang Infini
I expected something different from Oolang Infini but what I got was a pleasant Earl Grey tea scent. It begins with a big bergamot note and dries down to a lightly woody base. I expected to love this the most yet it’s my least favorite from the line so far.

Atelier Orange Sanguinne
I generally don’t go out of my way for citrus scents but Orange Sanguinne is just the sort of citrus I can love. It’s the scent of blood oranges with a fizzy orange haze hanging all about. Orange Sanguinne reminds me of what I’ve written about Guerlain Insolence eau de parfum (violets in neon lights) because I would describe Orange Sanguinne as blood oranges in neon lights. And the great part for me is that Orange Sanguinne doesn’t go sour (or turn into the dreaded urine note). It stays sweet oranges and never ventures into ‘citrus gone bad’ alley.

Atelier Trefle Pur
Trefle Pur is one fragrance at the start and then another one once dried down. It begins all happy clover fields with cotton tailed rabbits nibbling on dandeloins. It’s natural, cheerful, slightly green and refreshing. There’s an obvious herbal/basil note at the start as well as a kaffir lime leaf (to my nose, not listed amongst the notes). Once Trefle Pur dries down it morphs into a darker green mossy type scent. This isn’t truly mossy, it’s probably vetiver, but the overall vibe is dry green moss. After about 90 minutes Trefle Pur reminds me slightly of Ô de Lancome with more innocence.

Bond No 9 High Line
Another pretty bottle with nice jus but not something I love. Again, I can imagine there being fans of this green floral. It’s nice enough. In style, High Line reminds me of J’Adore or Magnolia Nobile. I would call this a sharp green floral. And the bottle is my favorite from Bond so far.

Bond No 9 Saks-en-Rose
Now this is a pretty rose scent. Saks-en-Rose is a slightly powdery, honeyed rose. It has a classic structure yet it is simpler and lighter than most classic rose fragrances. This is quite pretty - I’m wearing it today and enjoying it.

Tauer Perfumes Orange Star
Orange Star is not something I would have tried if I hadn't purchased a bottle for The Posh Peasant. But lo and behold I think Mr. Tauer has done a really nice job. Orange Star is a meditation on citrus but it is also a proper perfume, not simply a refreshing hesperedic tonic. Orange Star has a wonderful base (coming to be known as Tauerade) consisting of a creamy ambergris with a nice heft and depth in contrast to the fizzy orange-y top notes. Katie Puckrik compared Orange Star to pixy sticks and I do smell this at the start but once Orange Star dries down I think it's unusual and nice. This is one that I find a bit cerebral. I know that might seem odd since it's been compared with candy but there's a lot going on here. It keeps me sniffing and I think it's growing on me more and more. Oh, and the bottle? Bravo to Mr. Tauer! It's a great new design.

Vivara by Emilio Pucci
I love these bottles. They remind me of my Aunt Anne who collects paperweights. The bottles are almost like Prada (the funky design in the cap) meets Pucci paperweight. Vivara is a nice enough green floral. In fact, I can imagine lots of people loving this. I just have so many better green florals. At the moment, it’s making a pretty paperweight on my desk.

Vivara Sole 149 by Emilio Pucci
Anything with a tomato leaf note is something I’m going to try. There are three flankers to the original Vivara and I like Sole 149 a great deal. It’s along the lines of Parfums de Nicolaï Week-end a Deauville or Chanel Cristalle. I would be head over heels in love with this if it weren’t so fleeting. It might last an hour on me. But I do love it for the hour I can smell it.


La Bonne Vivante said...

thanks for a very informative post. I have not tried any of the Atelier line, so thanks for that. The Trefle Pur sounds very interesting; I love that kind of schizo fragrance. Vivara Sole sounds good too, but it is a pity it doesn't hang out a bit longer...

ScentScelf said...

First of all, I'm not generally a bottle person, but some get me. Like the Pucci. I even kinda like the Vivara, though I *really* like the vintage formula, which goes green in the galbanum rather than floral direction. (Rather handy that they changed the bottle so much, so that you can keep the iterations clear.) Indeed, it is paperweight-y.

Ateliers, I know nothing about. Thanks for the tour.

I'm glad to hear your impression of Orange's good to find someone who thinks there is more going on in there. So maybe there will be for me. I hope to try it by...the end of summer. :)

Mals86 said...

I had to tell you that I misread your description of Orange Sanguine as being orange in neon lights as "orange in neon tights," and burst out laughing.

Thanks! I needed that.