Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum Trio

I noticed when Loukhoum was first introduced all the perfumistas seemed to love it. Then suddenly it became passe. I’m not sure why, maybe because KM doesn’t have the back story, the brand mystique (read: heaps of $$ for marketing) or French roots that seem to keep many houses rather lofty in our minds. The first time I smelled Loukhoum I was blown away. I am not a gourmand lover but Loukhoum is a sweet gourmand that manages to be a proper perfume. It’s complex enough to keep the scent interesting, it isn’t just a sweet dessert but layers of rose petals, powder, almonds and honey. Original Loukhoum is a confection, to be sure, but it’s brilliant because it manages to be a wearable perfume for those who want to leave something besides a patisserie trail.

In 2008 there were two additional Loukhoums added to Keiko Mecheri’s line-up. Both were created by Yann Vasnier and seem to have taken aspects, more specifically certain notes, from original Loukhoum and magnified them as well as lessening the gourmand nature of the fragrance. Parfum de Soir, is parfum concentration, and focuses on the rose note, truly magnifies it, and adds a bit of oud, patchouli and tonka bean to the mix. Parfum de Soir seems well-liked by many fragrance reviewers, such as Nathan Branch who calls it a “femme fatale” sort of scent. Donna at Perfume Smellin’ Things fell for Parfum du Soir as well, who calls it “not a sugar fest but a celebration of sensuality.”

Contrary to what you might assume, Parfum du Soir is less sweet than original Loukhoum and, similar to the nature of most pure parfums, it stays closer to the skin. Parfum du Soir isn’t nearly the potent blast of sweetness as the original, but it’s still sweet and downright delectable.

Now for my favorite of the three, Loukhoum Eau Poudree. Loukhoum Eau Poudree is fluffy whipped heliotrope heaven on a bed of white rose petals. The powdery element is created by orris powder so this isn’t death by baby powder like Teint de Neige. Eau Poudree is sweet yet airy and not dense, you can smell the space between the notes. The vanilla, almond and musk play into the confection theme but somehow the overall scent manages to be sexy, soothing and insanely addictive. Two of my perfume pals tried this recently and had to have a bottle. And the odd part is that I wouldn’t have pegged either of them for liking this sort of sweet-gourmand fragrance (I’m not the type either and it’s surprises me that I love Eau Poudree so much).

Notes for Eau Poudree: White rose, orris powder, green violets, narcissus, candied almond, vanilla Madagascar, crystalline musks

Notes for original Loukhoum: hawthorn blossom, bulgarian rose absolute, precious woods, vanilla, Comores flowers, white almond, musk

Notes for Parfum du Soir: Rose absolute, Wardia rose, oud, patchouli, white almond, vanilla Madagascar absolute, tonka bean, benzoin

You can purchase all three Loukhoum fragrances at The Posh Peasant

Keiko Mecheri, Loukhoum

Keiko Mecheri is among my favorite niche perfumers. Bois de Santal, Umé, Osmanthus, Gourmandises and Patchoulissime are fragrances that I wear often in the summer. All of KM’s perfumes bear a thematic similarity ~ they’re relatively simple, modern, delicate and understated. I often think that the Keiko Mecheri line strikes a decidedly Asian sensibility and I hope this isn’t because I know the perfumer to be Japanese.

I’ve read that some think the KM line is a series of Serge Lutens knock-offs. It certainly is possible that Keiko Mecheri used Serge Lutens as her muse, however, her fragrances are so completely unique and different from SL that I don’t think this statement bears any truth. The only instance where there is a strong similarity is with Serge Luten’s Rahät Loukhoum and Keiko Mecheri’s Loukhoum. Most people will tell you that Rahät Loukhoum is the far superior fragrance, and while I would agree that Serge Lutens is superior overall, this is the only instance where I don’t think so. SL’s Rahät Loukhoum, based on a Turkish dessert by the same name, is unwearable for me. Rahät is a cherry, almond & vanilla syrupy sweet extravaganza. Rahät is an aroma that I think best left for home fragrance or a candle. A Rahät candle would be nice. I’ve tried Rahät so many times and in the end I just can’t stomach it and always think it simply isn’t meant to be worn. Keiko Mecheri’s Loukhoum, on the other hand, is also based on the Turkish delicacy, but somehow KM’s Loukhoum seems like perfume to me (and not a candle). KM’s Loukhoum is very similar to SL’s Rahät as far as the notes, but I think it’s the execution that’s completely different. KM Loukhoum is a very sweet confection but it’s also a slightly powdery, fluffy, cloud-like aroma. KM’s Loukhoum is an aura that surrounds me, making me think of sweet “air”, whereas SL’s Rahät smells like a realistic physical dessert sticking to my wrist.

I would guess that Loukhoum is the most popular fragrance in the Keiko Mecheri line. I don’t like sweet gourmand fragrances but somehow this one works for me. It’s so ‘airy’ that I don’t feel overcome by it. KM’s Loukhoum also manages to make me feel cozy instead of hungry. I also assume it’s the most popular in the Keiko Mecheri line because the gourmand fragrance genre has been all the rage with mainstream department store and Sephora-type audiences. I can’t help but think if Keiko Mecheri had a mainstream, instead of niche, showing it would outsell Pink Sugar, Philosophy, and every sweet, fruity, floral confection on the market.

Keiko Mecheri’s Loukhoum needs to be applied with a light hand. It builds up to an extremely strong aroma if you overdo it. And the longevity of KM Loukhoum is unreal! It lasts all day and into the night (easily).

Longevity: unbelievable ~ easily 12+ hours
Sillage: depends upon application but it can be strong

Notes: Hawthorn blossom, Bulgarian rose absolute, precious woods, vanilla, Comores flowers, white almond, musk

The overall aroma seems to be honey, almond, soft powdery woods and sweet vanilla. I don’t smell anything flowery.

Keiko Mecheri recently announced two additional Loukhoum perfumes so there will now be a trio of Loukhoums. She has created Loukhoum eau Poudrée and Loukhoum Parfum du Soir.

Loukhoum eau Poudrée will be a lighter and more floral (rose) version of the original.

Loukhoum Parfum du Soir will be an even richer and intensely vanillic version of the original.