Showing posts with label Juliette Has a Gun Citizen Queen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Juliette Has a Gun Citizen Queen. Show all posts

Monday, February 2, 2009

Téo Cabanel Oha: A Review


Because of my immense love for Alahine, which falls easily within my top 10 fragrances of all time, in fact, it’s within my top 5 favorites of all time, I haven’t worn the other Téo Cabanel offerings very much. Lately I’ve been swooning for Amouage Lyric and enjoying other oriental-rose type fragrances so when I went away last weekend I brought one bottle with me and this was: Oha. I wanted to spend some time with Oha and see if I liked it.

To backtrack for a moment, Téo Cabanel is a little gem of a perfume company, with its roots in the late 1800’s. Téo Cabanel reestablished itself in 2005 under the direction of Caroline Moncouqut and the perfumer/nose being Jean-Francois Latty. Jean Francois Latty has also done YSL Jazz and YSL Pour Homme. It was March’s review on Perfume Posse which led me to sample Alahine in the first place, otherwise I had never heard of this small perfume house.

It was just a few months before I launched The Posh Peasant that I sampled Alahine, Oha and Julia. Immediately I knew that I *must* have this perfume line available at The Posh Peasant. Téo Cabanel’s official website states that they use the finest, 100% natural ingredients, and no compromises are made on quality. This certainly seems true as their fragrances do smell very high quality. Téo Cabanel creates perfumes which are modern takes on a decidedly classic French style – which is my personal favorite.

Oha is a beautiful rose oriental and I’m so glad I finally took some time with it. The notes are listed as: roses from Bulgaria and Morocco, jasmine, cardamom, vanilla, iris, tonka bean, woods, and white musk. It’s not listed among the notes but I think there’s an element of patchouli in Oha, which seems to anchor the rose and other florals. There’s a slight similarity with L’Artisan’s Voleur de Roses (though much less patchouli registers in Oha), but I actually think Oha is more complex, interesting and has excellent longevity in comparison. Another comparison would be Juliette Has a Gun's Citizen Queen, which I also love, but Oha is less dark and spicy than Citizen Queen and the rose is more prominent in Oha. Oha begins with slightly hesperidic notes, tea rose and sparkling woods. It definitely starts off more rosy in the beginning than when it dries down. At the start you might think it’s all about rose, but the rose, while present throughout, walks off center stage after about an hour. The majority of time Oha is on my skin I smell a lovely retro oriental aroma, with slight whiffs woody notes, and a teensy bit of powdered vanilla to soften the edges of the rose petals. Oha is refreshingly crisp yet comfortably warm. Oha is classified as a chypre but I think of it as an oriental, however, for either category I find it light as opposed to heavy and very easy to wear. Oha smells elegant and expensive, it’s easily an evening fragrance, but when applied with a light hand it also works beautifully as a day-time fragrance.

Longevity: excellent 4-5 hours
Sillage: nice, individuals close to you will compliment
Rating: 4 stars

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Juliette Has a Gun, Citizen Queen: A Review


I feel daft. I just don’t understand what the name Citizen Queen is all about. Was there a Shakespearian heroine or a historical figure that I’ve missed? Citizen Kane? Nevertheless, the ad copy and imagery surrounding Citizen Queen seem to bring the point home for me: Citizen Queen, as a woman, is one rebellious, sexy, adventurous, pistol-packing, independent, goth femme fatal.

With all this imagery in my head, it’s difficult to smell Citizen Queen without envisioning this fiercely independent, ass kicking female. Oddly, if it weren’t for the marketing imagery causing me to see this woman I might see Auntie Emma, the well-read librarian, with strands of pearls and glasses instead.

So I have this confused image when I smell Citizen Queen. I imagine Auntie Emma with thigh high boots and a pistol in her purse. Hmm.

Well, I guess this is sort of what Citizen Queen is meant to smell like. It’s supposed to be a modern chypre – a classic animalic chypre which has been updated, softened and delivered to us, dressed in black velvet and pink bows, for 2008. True, Citizen Queen is not as bitter or heavy as the older classic chypres but it does pay homage.

Citizen Queen is one of those perfumes where it’s very difficult for me to pick out the individual notes. A general description of the fragrance is a musky, leathery scent with a soft powdered ambery quality that’s barely dusted with florals. I cannot identify the florals but I can smell the musk, leather and powdery amber quite prominently.

I don’t often receive comments on the perfume I wear, but in the past 8 weeks or so since I bought Citizen Queen I’ve received several compliments. The comments I’ve received are that I “smell good,” and “fresh” and “spicy.” Oddly I don’t think I would have said Citizen Queen smells particularly “fresh or spicy” but I suppose I can’t expect those who don’t have a perfume (ahem) habit such as me to say that I smell like “musky leather” or a “modern chypre!” The thing about Citizen Queen is that it smells really good. It is an attention getting scent so those who like introverted, quiet and soft fragrances probably won’t like this. I find myself liking Citizen Queen more and more each time I wear it. It’s definitely a leathery fragrance, but soft and powdery leather laced with sweet florals. I’ve mentioned “powdery” twice now and feel compelled to say that I don’t like powdery scents (Habanita chokes me) but Citizen Queen only has a smidgen of powder, not enough to bother me, so even if you don’t like powder you may still love this.

Citizen Queen smells really good, I love it. It is by far my favorite from Juliette Has a Gun. I imagine this will be among the fragrances I wear often – not one of those bottles I have and wear only once per year.

Longevity: Excellent, easily more than 6-8 hours
Sillage: Potent, light application is necessary for the office
*Stars: 4

*This is my new rating system.

Rating system 1-5 Stars:
5 stars: Swooning all over myself
4 stars: Very good, I'll wear it
3 stars: Good. Decent. Average.
2 stars: Indifference. Won’t wear it.
1 star: Scrubber. Make this go away