Tuesday, August 24, 2010

My favorites for summer 2010

I’ve often thought other bloggers were getting ahead of themselves when posting their “top favorites of the season” lists at the very start of said season. I made a conscious decision to hold off on mine until the end of the summer when I can actually tell you what I have worn and enjoyed the most. Now, this doesn’t make for increasing summer perfume sales anywhere, as most of us are now looking forward to Fall fragrances, but I guess depending on where you live you could easily have another month of summer weather ahead of you.

These are the fragrances that I wore the most this summer. These are not simply scents I think are perfect for summer, in theory, but rather the juice I sprayed on myself as I left the house for the day. Summers in Santa Fe aren’t like the East Coast where I’m originally from, there’s much less humidity, so I’m finding I don’t have to wear solely the lightest, sheerest, greenest colognes like I used to, but, being a creature of habit, I have been enjoying mostly the usual warm weather fare. And after I post this I need to check back to see what I was wearing last summer (surely there are a few of the same).

(alphabetical order)

Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille: My favorite honeysuckle iced tea fragrance. Pure perfection. I wear it every summer and always will as long as Annick Goutal promises to never reformulate or tamper with its deceptively simple beauty.

Atelier Trefle Pur: The Atelier line is quite nice. All are natural smelling and sheer, however, if you spray yourself wet most of their scents last much longer than you might guess. Trefle Pur is a beautifully airy green scent. It starts off like a gentle green clover filled meadow and dries down to a light woody green base. It’s different from other green scents in my arsenal because it isn’t bitterly green or stridently green as you might associate with the galbanum note; Trefle Pur is a gentle little green gem.

Diptyque L’eau de Tarrocco
: at one time I suggested Chandler Burr was crazy for rating this fragrance highly. I hereby eat my words. While L’eau de Tarrocco is definitely reserved for only the hottest days, it is an absolute jewel amongst citrusy cologne type fragrances. It is so naturally refreshing and joyous. I learned that I need to spray myself wet in order for this scent to register for about 2.5 hours, and so this is what I do.

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese
: Therese is gorgeous, even with the melon note. I would slightly prefer wearing Diorama instead but I’m skittish about using my bottle of Diorama because it’s harder to get, only sold at the Dior boutique in Paris, while I can buy Therese easily in the US. I’m comparing these two because Roundnitska created both, with Diorama arriving on the scene wayyy before Therese and they are quite similar in structure. Therese is more natural smelling while Diorama has a more classic “perfumey” scent.

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Grosellina: Yep, even an Aqua Allegoria made it into my summer wardrobe. Grosellina is the tartest fruity scent ever! It smells of red currants that make my mouth pucker and water. It is a unique and unusual fruity scent and that is easily worn in hot weather and is the farthest thing from a derivative fruity floral scent.

Heeley Oranges and Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clements: This is a shockingly gorgeous citrus floral. It reminds me of Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier but the Heeley is a million times better. For anyone who loves citrus, neroli and orange blossom type scents this is a must try. The longevity is decent for a perfume of this type.

Il Profumo Blanche Jacinthe: Watery hyacinths. This little number has captured my heart and I’ve worn it a lot this summer.

Paco Rabanne Metal: One of the best green chypres on the planet. An especially great mood lifter at the start and it dries down to a gorgeous woody green chypre.

Parfums D’Orsay Tilleul
: This is typical summer fare for me, the best linden fragrance I’ve found so far.

Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique
: Again, this is typical summer fare, the best mimosa soliflore I’ve found yet.

Profumo del Forte Roma Imperiale: “bunny eared oriental” Roma Imperiale is the softest, gentlest, good night’s sleep, spring in my step, good hair day oriental I’ve found yet. One important note: I have found Ava Luxe Mousse de Chine to have a similar vibe. I wrote about Mousse de Chine awhile back and recently made the connection. So, if you happen to like Roma Imperiale but don’t want to spring for it due to the price you might try Mousse de Chine.

Santa Maria Novella Melograno: This is an aldehydic, slightly powdery, slighty musky scent that bears no resemblance to “melograno” which is pomegranate. Nevertheless, it’s along the same lines (loosely, I mean very loosely similar) as one of my favorites, Chanel No. 22. Melograno is much more casual than No. 22 and is easily worn as a summertime scent for me. It’s also much less fierce and attention seeking. It’s rather difficult to describe, there are some slight incensey qualities and even a touch of leather upon dry down. It’s not for everyone but for those that like this sort of thing Melograno is unique and memorable.

Strange Invisible Perfumes Fair Verona: One of the few jasmine predominant perfumes I love, but it’s equally strongly on orange blossom so that might be why I can love it, the orange blossom tempers any of the typically attention seeking indolic jasmine qualities. I also love SIPs Epic Gardenia and again, this is coming from a person who doesn’t like gardenia. SIP does some brilliant florals. Fair Verona might be the easiest to love, a “beginner” SIP if you will. It’s fresh yet floral and I love getting whiffs of this one from inside my shirt.

Honorable mentions (I had to cut the list at 12, otherwise it would have been unruly):
Emilio Pucci Vivara Variazioni Sole 149 (lovely citrusy chypre in similar fashion as Chanel Cristalle)
Bond No. 9 Eau de Noho (gorgeous green linden)
Hermes Pamplemousse Rose
Hermes Au The Rouge (roobios tea with fig)
Chanel No. 19 in the most exquisite vintage formulation that I bought from a POLer (the difference between this vintage and the current is vast)
Creed Aubepine Acacia (unique citrusy scent with a slight mimosa/hawthorn heart and a much less heavy yet traditionally Creed dry down)
and last but not least Hermes Eau d’Hermes (this I wear when I’m craving a little cumin skank. But Eau d’Hermes is a sheer, easy skank and perfect for any season).

So, what have you been wearing this summer? Mostly old standbys or have you found a few new perfumes that have entered the winner’s circle? Do tell...


Anonymous said...

Surprisingly, my summer list shares exactly nothing with yours... except perhaps SMN Melograno, which a friend sent me a small decant of and which I've been wearing while trying to Figure It Out. It's a little freakster of a scent with aldehydes and incense that makes me think of both my parents - Mom's No. 5 and Dad's Old Spice talcum powder. It's a little like having them standing right behind me where I can't see them, which I suppose would be comforting if they were dead. They're not. Therefore, it's just weird.

Also, vintage No. 19 edt is a force of nature.

What I've been wearing most: Jacomo Silences, MH Fleur de Matin, Ines de la Fressange (the first one, the aldehydes-rose-peach), Honore des Pres Vamp a NY, PdR Rose d'Ete, Hanae Mori Haute Couture (I can thank Brian for that one!). I also used up my sample of Moschino Funny!, which turned out to be what I'd WANTED to get out of Pamplemousse Rose, so I guess that one will join my collection soon.

Anonymous said...

most of us are now looking forward to Fall fragrances, but I guess depending on where you live you could easily have another month of summer weather ahead of you.
How northern-hemispherist of you! (Teasing!)

It has been uncommonly cool in Northern Calfornia this summer, but it finally warmed up this week and Escale a Portofino is my greatest joy at the moment. Also gratifying: Devin, Yatagan, TDC Sublime Balkiss, Cologne du 68, L'Artisan Fleur de Liane, and Nicoll No. 17 (a fennell fragrance from the Six Scents series number 2).

Akimon Azuki said...

I have been wearing Fair Verona (from my FB) and Heeley's Oranges (I used up a sample and I am considering a FB) a lot this summer, along with my usual suspects, SIP Prima Ballerina & Gardenia, Florascent's Thé Vert and classic AG Eau d'Hadrien (old formula, new one, especially in EdP, is tragic), so we share quite a few favorites. As it happens, I am traveling to Santa Fe this week - need to figure out what will travel with me!

Unknown said...

Wow, I've hardly tried anything on your list, but now I want to. I've mostly worn Penhaligon's Orange Blossom and Diptyque's Philosykos this summer, when I wasn't testing something else.

Tatyana said...

Dear Abigail,
Thank you for inspiration. I describe my summer top as well.

Isa said...

Summer in the South-East of Spain still is at its height and I'm enjoying my usual fresher fragrances, Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic, Un Jardin Après la Mousson and Eternity Summer 2005.
And two incorporations into my collection: Diptyque Vetyverio and Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Lavender.

dissed said...

THERESE. I can't spray it in warm weather, and that's the only time I smell the melon, but . . . it's amazing.

Tamara*J said...

Abigail your list is on point girl! I have tried a few of yours and would spray with abandon but I can't get more decants much less FB these days, so I huff at night, after my bath, in my bed. That makes me sound so ol' biddy, I'm not though! ;) ha someday..
Hmmmm let me see-

The weather is so fickle here, sometimes I can go for the gusto in the evening but I am trying to keep that summer state of mind for as long as possible so the honors go to EL Azuree-"Bandit's little sister" and Bronze Goddess with it's coconutty vetiver yum factor,Shalimar Light- finally one that digs me, (Thanks Mals!) L'Artisan Verte Violette - just right with it's sweet softness plus it does last on me yay! and Dzing! which I never tire of. Along with PdE's Wazamba which is awesome, I love how it reminds me of a smokey, resinous forest fire,not surprising that it does well in the heat.
Etro Sandalo is a perfect skin scent and just discovered in the summer of 2010(drumroll please!) The whopping gloriousness of Dioressence and 31 Rue Cambon,(Thank you Julia!) I must find a way to get these in my humble collection someday.

I look forward to all my autumn beauties but it's been a lovely, smelly too -short- for- me season of sun.


waftbyCarol said...

I'm right with you on Melograno - it's indescribable and you either love it or hate it...I use the soap and shampoo , along with the EDT .
For tart , mouth watering freshness I love MPG Fraiche Passiflore , Claudie Pierlot for girly orange-blossom-ness , DSH Minuit ( a cool fresh jasmine ),but my most worn is Coty Chypre edp , which I bought a partial bottle of this summer . it will be gone before long , but I will relish every drop . Speaking of Ava Luxe , her Chypre Noir is close , though more floral .

Karin said...

OK, I have not tried ANY of the scents you mention! Just when I think I'm getting caught up, I realize the overwhelming number of fragrances I have yet to try. Ah well. Always room for discovery, right? Thanks for the inspiration. :-)

I discovered and fell in love with some great scents this summer:
Eau de Sisley 3
No 19 EDT (alas, not vintage!)
Nuit de Tubereuse
Kelly Caleche
Sinfonia di Note's Saveur d'Artichaut
Par Amour Toujours

Bottles I've had for awhile and still love for summer - Bobbi Brown Beach and Juicy Couture!

Ines said...

Oh, I heard a lot of nice things about Melograno but still haven't tried it. My Aqua Allegoria for summer is Pamplemousse. And I couldn't agree more about Heeley's Lemons etc (I hate that long name, I always say something wrong when I have to say it).
I cannot but agree with your summer list coming at the end of the summer - it is much more real that way, talking about perfumes that one wore through the summer. If I wrote a list at the beginning of summer and now went to check it, I would be surprising myself. Even though I think I know what I'll wear through the summer (with some additional scents coming along), it never ends like that. :)
But one that stayed with me this summer is again Fleur de Figuier by Molinard.

StyleSpy said...

What I've mostly wanted this summer are big honkin', stonkin' tropicals. (I never have been much of a citrus person.) Manoumalia, Divine, Vamp a NY, Amoureuse, Carnal Flower. When I want something zippy & fresh: Camelia Chinois, Rose Ikebana, Zagorsk.

chris g said...

This is the first summer I've worn Neroli by Annick Goutal...wonderful! I also wear Diorella and Y (all year round, actually), Yvresse is great and I started wearing Liz Zorn's Violets and Rainwater - perfect for rainy summer days!

Miss Lidia Grierson said...

My mostly worn fragrance this summer is Herba Fresca - fresh, realistic smell of grass and mint, I love it! Then goes... Metal, I was surprised I wasn't the only person in the world that likes and uses it ;) Third place goes to Miracle, when I was a teen I was on a trip with my friend and she has bottle of Miracle, this is scent of summer vacation for me since then ;) i like also to use the tiniest drop of Poison in the hot summer days. This summer I also frequently used Essence of John Galliano (I know it's a room spray, so what? ;) ), AA Gentiana, Anisia Bella (I like this line very much), Muscs Koublai Khan, Sun Moon Stars, Angel, Alien and Flowerbomb

Zazie said...

With respect to what I enjoyed last year, only my (beautiful) travel spray bottle of Beyond Love got extensively used.
The reason is that this summer I discovered how I could enjoy BIG scents, or prematurely dismissed classics, with the right application... and getting full advantage from the heat to trigger the magic.
So I had the most amazing time with Carnal Flower and Une fleur de Cassie, with Bois des iles and Beige(ok, this is not a classic), but most importantly I discovered the old Guerlain jewels and I lived in Chamade and l'heure bleue each time I could. Of course I made forays into Serge Lutens and Andy Tauer territories, but the fragrances above were the winners: they made my summer wonderful, despite bad weather, work crap, or whatever annoyance I had to face!

ScentScelf said...

I have to go to the No.19 right away, because I've been in on a couple of vintage splits, either edt or edp. I have my own partial of vintage edp, too. SOOOOO fabulous. But, to be fair, the current iteration of the *parfum* is a happy place. (I just hate to chase people away from it if they get a chance. When it comes to that hyper green stuff on the counter in the U.S. these days, though...well, suffice to say, "sigh."

Personally, I have trouble blogging about seasonal lists for the reasons you say, PLUS once a given season starts wrapping up, I'm starting to think about transition. So either I write a "projected" list at the start of the season, post dispatches about specific perfumes during the season, or force myself to do what you did. (I trend toward b, then a, then c. But I like c. I am glad you did c. I enjoyed reading your c. Thank you. :) :) :) )

On the dispatch front...in the last week or two, I've brought the Bulgari Eau de The Vert out. You know what? It's still nice. It still does a good job of refreshing and providing interest. And discovering this, and following up with more uses, makes me feel virtuous about keeping a back catalog of fragrances. ;)

Nathan Branch said...

You now have me curious about Paco Rabanne Metal. I think yours is the nicest tidy blurb I've ever read about it.

Monika said...

Not much overlap with me either, except for Parfums d'Orsay's Tilleul. I am leaning towards trying to talk myself into a bottle of Eau de Noho too...

That said, my surprise hit of the summer, during our 3 week-scorcher, was Tauer's Lonestar Memories. It's awesome in the heat. Shocked me, because when I first tried it 2 years ago, I hated it -- it smelled exactly like a Canadian Tire store, right down to the bicycle seats and shelves of cleaning products. Must have been my body chemistry at the time (I was battling a mineral and vitamin deficiency) because it smells totally different on me now -- and I can't get enough of it!

So many scent I want to try, so little money... *sigh*