Thursday, September 16, 2010

Diptyque Eau Duelle

Eau Duelle is a soft, citrusy, fresh, vanilla with subtle spices in the mix.

I have a long list of vanilla centered fragrances I love, which I call “vanilla for those who don’t like vanilla.” The reason I named the category as such, is because there’s a lot more going on in these perfumes than straight-forward vanilla. Most are heavily woody or boozy, with big dollops of incense and other notes negating any foodie vanilla prominence. Some highlights from my favorite vanillas list are: The Different Company Oriental Lounge, L’Artisan Havana Vanille, Parfumerie Generale Felanilla and Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille. I wouldn’t place Eau Duelle into this category, however, because it’s much closer to a typical vanilla scent, with far fewer spicy, woody notes.

Eau Duelle reminds me of Creed Sublime Vanille with a touch more spice. It starts off citrusy, dries to a soft vanilla and sports some gentle cardamom and tea-like spices if you look for them. It is entirely inoffensive and easy. While it’s obviously vanilla, it isn’t foodie nor very sweet. It’s a comforting skin scent.

Comparing Eau Duelle with Sublime Vanille isn’t an insult. I happen to love Sublime Vanille and, in fact, think Eau Duelle is a great way to avoid the Creed price tag.

I am, however, getting nervous about the direction of Diptyque. Diptyque was my first niche love interest with Philosykos and I have remained faithful to the brand ever since. I have adored L’Ombre dans L’eau, Opone, Oyedo, Tam Dao and L’eau Trois to distraction. I have been newly introduced to Eau Lente and it's breathtaking. All of these fragrances have excellent longevity, sillage and are boldly unique. The past few offerings from Diptyque have been much less bold, and closer to the zero sillage situation from L’Artisan. Vetyverio was nice, reminded me of Guerlain Vetiver Pour Elle, but is so soft and agreeable I easily forgot about it. I’m worried. I want Diptyque to stick to what made them brilliant and not go all soft and L'Artisan on me.

Notes: two kinds of vanilla, bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper, elemi, juniper, saffron, calamus, frankincense, cypriol, black tea, musk and amber.


Anonymous said...

The first thing I thought of when I started reading your post was- is it similar to Creed's SV? I am actually glad to hear that you have compared the two! I have been in love with Creed's SV since it came out but have only been able to admire it from a far for the time being. I think I will try to find Eau Duelle as it sounds like something I would definitely like to try!

Unknown said...

It doesn't sound exciting. That's too bad. I hope this is just a temporary lull too.

Anonymous said...

I read your review and then went out to try both. Sublime Vanille and Duelle smell nothing alike!

Duelle has little vanilla in its base and is largely dominated by aromatic spices and a green accord, while Sublime Vanille is mostly a very clear floral-slightly sweet orchid-vanilla fragrance bookended by citrus and musk. Two very different fragrances.

dk said...

I went to the Chandler Burr Scent dinner in Boston on Sunday and this was the perfume that inspired the dessert. Which was way more exciting an exploration of vanilla than the perfume--two brioche/topped with vanilla ice cream. One gentle and tea soaked and the other dirty and smokey.

Vanessa said...

This sounds right up my street - I like the citrus-vanilla vibe of Guerlain 180 ans de creation, for example, and here is a perfume which is commercially available!