Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Sniffing around the Dallas Northpark Mall

YSL Parisienne
This is supposed to be edgy, right? It's not edgy for me. It smells like fruity candy. A little tartness perhaps from blackcurrant. It's a nice enough fruity floral but isn't FB worthy for me. It will surely have fans, it's nice. I just can't help comparing it with Paris which effortlessly eats it alive in one gulp.

The Different Company Oriental Lounge
Sweet. Gourmand. Vanilla. Foody. I can think of loads of other oriental gourmands for a lot less $$ that I like better.

Byredo Gypsy Water
So faint I can't be bothered describing it. It's too faint for it's price tag.

Frederic Malle Angelique Sous La Pluie
Gin & tonic for 5 minutes then just water. Virtually scentless.

Frederic Malle Geranium Pour Monseuir
I didn't expect to like this, but I do. It's a greenish herbal (geranium) minty little number. I like the natural herbal freshness. I left Barney's with a large sample and will wear it a few more times.

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles
This is not so much a perfume as it is the smell of Christmas. It's a beautiful pine-y aromatic scent. I also have a large sample of this and will try wearing it a few times. It doesn't strike me as unlikeable in the least - only that it might seem more like a home fragrance than a perfume to many.

Guerlain Idylle
Pleasant and pretty. Reminds me of Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile a bit. The bottle is nicer in person. Idylle is a light fresh floral. It will have fans, it's nice enough.

Now I WANT Le Labo Tubereuse 40 and LL Oud 27. Tubereuse 40 is not so much about tuberose but instead a citrus-y neroli. It's fresh and gorgeous. Le Labo Oud 27 is an easily wearable oud for me. It's softly sweet and resinous with loads of woods, straw, hay and a dab of honey. Oud 27 dries down to a woody musk that's not especially interesting but the beginning and middle stages are yummy and at least the dry down isn't band-aids or oud-pee. Until my visit to Barney's the last 2 days I didn't realize I was such a Le Labo fan. Go figure.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Alien and Angel Liqueur de Parfum

I was excited to hear about these several weeks ago, but figured they'd never reach me, so I was beside myself with glee when I found out they'd arrived at the local Dillards last Friday. I'm a fan of Alien and Angel and have been at least marginally interested in all the various Mugler flankers. The flankers to A Men have been the most compelling to me. B Men is pretty addictive. A Men Pure Malt and Pure Coffee are excellent fragrances as well. The idea behind the Liqueur series seemed intriguing. Apparently, liquor-making techniques were applied to the manufacture of these perfumes, resulting in something richer, a bit boozy, more nuanced and complex.

When I first smelled them at the counter, I didn't notice much of a difference. I sprayed them on strips and found, walking around the mall, that of the two Angel seemed to be the most divergent from its source. It still had the overall tone or olfactory profile but with a more subdued patchouli and a notable absence of chocolate. Alien Liqueur seemed practically identical to its source; so much so that I couldn't justify spending 100 bucks on it. When I got home, however, I realized how wrong I was.

Alien Liqueur is incredibly rich and lush. It lasts forever on the skin. I sprayed some on four hours ago and can still smell it, rich as ever. Like A Men Pure Malt, it was aged in an oak wood barrel for eight weeks. Angel was aged for the same amount of time in a cherry wood barrel. This makes sense, as I detect in the latter a sort of sour cherry tobacco accord, like something left to languish in a pipe. That isn't altogether unpleasant, lending it aspects which remind me of older perfumes, which get thicker rather than more diffuse as they dry down. Angel Liqueur brings to mind port wine (or, okay, cognac) and dark, aged leather, all of which I love. The first ten to twenty minutes are pretty divine, with a protracted, boozy opening.

Alien strikes a bigger cord with me. Alien Liqueur differs from the original primarily by way of depth and its treatment of jasmine. The original seemed very rich to me until smelling the liqueur version. I wouldn't say that the original is weak now, but I wouldn't say it's as decisive a perfume as I originally thought either, and believe it or not, it's certainly more transparent. I enjoy both but find the original to be much more of a sugar rush than I imagined, the jasmine caramelized in a way which seems adolescent compared to its liqueur counterpart, which bundles the flower in folds of velvety texture. Who knew I would like these two better than almost anything I've smelled lately, most of which I expected so much more out of.

Diddling around Dallas: Digging Aldehyde 44

So I'm moving from Princeton, New Jersey to Santa Fe, New Mexico. The last 2 weeks I've been making my way slowly across the country - taking a leisurely tour of the southeastern states and now I find myself in Dallas, Texas. So far, I've found most of the main streets and back roads of America to be fragrance free with virtually zero shops selling interesting perfumes, especially not any of the niche gems. Even in New Orleans I didn't find much perfume. New Orleans was much more about antiques, food, casinos, strippers and Voodoo Juice (my drink of choice for a few days).

About six months ago I read about Le Lebo Aldehyde 44, wanted it desperately, then realized it was a Dallas exclusive. Thinking I'd never be in Dallas, and not knowing anyone in Texas, Aldehyde 44 quickly vanished from my mind. Until today when I strolled into Barney's Dallas. I made a perfumista dash for the Le Labo counter and could barely manage a cursory hello to the sales associate while I sprayed myself with this gorgeous elixir named Aldehyde 44. OH MY GAWWWWWD. It was love at first sniff. One of my top 5 favorite perfumes is Chanel No. 22 and Aldehyde 44 bears a strong family resemblance.

Created by perfumer Yann Vasnier, Le Labo Aldehyde 44 is without a doubt my favorite from the Le Labo line. Granted I haven't tried every single Le Labo scent available but I do have Iris 39, Rose, Labdanum, Ambrette and today I sniffed Oud. Oud, by the way, is much more intriguing and wearable than I'd previously imagined. Given my affection for aldehyde embellished florals, Aldehyde 44 does not disappoint, in fact, it's much more amazing than I'd imagined. It opens with that sparkling, frothy fizz of Chanel-esque aldehydes and is also reminiscent of Piguet's Baghari. Aldehydes, especially this white floral type which you would recognize if you have Chanel No. 22 or No. 5 are especially radiant and sophisticated. Aldehyde 44's aldehydes are flawlessly white and snowy without the usual powdery quality found in this fragrance style. The initial burst of Aldehyde 44 makes me huff my arm. I initially wrote "The initial burst of Aldehyde 44 makes me WANT TO huff my arm" but I removed the want to because I'm simply huffing this stuff - not just wanting to - I'm doing it.

Somehow Aldehyde 44 courts the haughty memory of Chanel No. 22 and No. 5 but veers away towards it's own warm, sensual, femme fatale composition. I adore Chanel No. 22 in all it's haughty glory, but Aldehyde 44 is earthier, more floral, modern and sexy.

Le Labo's Aldehyde 44 is a beautiful perfume. For me, it was worth stumbling upon in Dallas and paying the $400 price tag (100 ml size). Yes, I felt it irresponsible if I did not mention the price of this lovely juice. It's expensive.

Notes: aldehydes, tuberose absolute, narcissus absolute, jasmin sambac, musks and woods

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

LUSH Vanillary

Perhaps not a fragrance choice for the majority of our dear readers but I've been craving vanilla the past few weeks so I ordered Lush's Vanillary (liquid not solid). I expected something akin to cake, cookies and dessert but instead found a sweet vanillic floral - strikingly similar to the over the top vanilla of L'Artisan Vanilia. Lush's Vanillary is a jasmine-lily-vanilla and if you're a fan of L'Artisan Vanilia, and are aware of it's discontinuation, you might want to give this a go. I also notice threads of similarity with Hermes Vanille Galante (gasp) - must be the lily and slight woody notes.

Vanillary is, of course, sweet, but no sweeter than L'Artisan or Serge Luten's Un Bois Vanille. It certainly has better longevity and sillage than either of these illustrious perfume houses. It's really quite pleasant and a steal for $42. It's housed in an ugly little bottle but everything is relatively ugly and basic from Lush.

Sometimes I enjoy perfume reviews that wax poetic and sometimes I tire of all the puffed up words and just want to know what a fragrance smells like. Lush's Vanillary smells great. It's the sort of fragrance which will receive oodles of compliments.

Friday, September 25, 2009

Go buy some Mariella Burani. Right now.

A little online search made me realize very few perfumistas are talking about Mariella Burani perfume. I'm aghast! (Ok, a little drama there but I am surprised). I wore Mariella Burani here and there in the mid-late 90's. I'm pretty sure I had the EDP and now can only find EDT but upon buying the EDT last week I've deemed them either similar or exactly the same. Being a lover of the Cabotine bottle I find myself rather giddy with the gorgeous bottle that houses Mariella Burani (henceforth MB). The hefty masculine square bottle topped with a gaudy orange bouquet cap is tres chic indeed. This bottle is display worthy for me, not clumped in a group but alone. I recall loving MB when I wore it a decade ago but after smelling trillions of perfumes since then I've come to the conclusion that MB is an absolute gem. Once you've "smelled them all" and then go back to something you wore ages ago and realize it's the cats meow, well, it's a neat thing.

Now getting to the juice. MB which reminds me of Chanel No. 5 but better (I've never been fond of No. 5, it smells like weak dishwater to me; soapy detergent-y blandness - too vague, too blah, will never understand why it's the biggest deal of all time and yes, I've tried it in all concentrations!). MB is similar to No. 5 in that it's a highly aldehydic floral with a clean, polished vibe, yet it's volume is turned up a few notches - there's much more va-va-vavoom in MB. If No. 5 is Nicole Kidman then Mariella Burani is Sophia Loren. So maybe I'm thinking Italian because Mariella Burani is Italian, whatever, MB is sensual where No. 5 is fastidious.MB is a gorgeous aldehydic floral that starts fresh and citrusy and dries down to a creamy oriental dream. There are not that many fragrances I would call creamy - Fracas is one - MB is creamy. It's classified as an oriental but there is a chypre vibe happening here - if No. 5 is a chypre then MB is very much in the same vein. There is an underlying fresh, herbal quality to MB which keeps the sweetness in check at all times. While it's undeniably sweet and feminine it definitely remains fresh and not too over the top - a lovely balance. Honestly I can't believe I haven't written about MB before and that there isn't any chatter amongst perfumistas and on the other blogs and fora - this is truly amazing stuff. Some days I get so bored and tired with the usual fanfare about Serge Lutens, Guerlain and Chanel. I swear Serge could defecate into a bucket, Sheldrake could liquify it and put it into a bottle and there would be legions interpreting and swooning over his latest artistic masterpiece. MB smells amazingly good and it also has nice sillage (potent) and excellent longevity. It's also a bonus that it's available from many online discount sites for a song.

Notes are listed as -
Top: tarragon, bergamot, brazilian rosewood and lemon;
middle: iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose;
base: amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Bond No. 9 Success is a Job in New York



Bond No. 9's latest launch is the 4th in the Andy Warhol series and named Success is a Job in New York. The Andy Warhol series so far consists of Silver Facory, Union Square, Lexington Avenue and now Success is a Job in New York. The fragrance is said to be inspired by money and named for an article Warhol illustrated for Glamour magazine in the 1950s.

I read Fragrance Bouquet's review of Success is a Job in New York (henceforth simply Success) in July and have been looking forward to sniffing this intriguing perfume ever since. I must say ordering from Bond No. 9 is sheer pleasure. I ordered yesterday and received the perfume today, lovingly wrapped in their subway token tissue paper with 3 bon bon samples that I'd requested. And this was their free ground shipping, not overnight express or anything like that.

The fragrance itself is comparable to Bond's Chinatown & Lexington Avenue in it's uniqueness. This is one of those very difficult to describe little gems. It's hard to categorize - being oriental, floral-oriental and gourmand but also exhibiting a chypre-ish vibe at the start. After wearing Success for 7 hours, I've decided it's a floral-oriental on me. And a delicious and pretty one at that. One I'm very happy to have irresponsibly purchased unsniffed!

The overall thrust of the perfume is what I like to call a "true perfume" - notes do not stand out for me - it is a smell all it's own, a very identifiable smell - such as Loulou, Angel, Chinatown, Amarige or Mitsouko are unmistakeable scents. Success is sweet (I like this sentence on many levels). But not too sweet for me by any stretch. It's initially quite strong and messy, starting off being just about every scent family at once - citrusy, floral, oriental, gourmand and spicy. As expected, Success settles in about 15 minutes to a sweet, powdery, floral oriental. But these words do not even describe it well. The strongest floral note for me is jasmine, and in some respects the jasmine in Success has a teensy weensy similarity to Creed's Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie.

I sprayed Success on my friend today. Sometimes I like to get a bit of perspective, to see how it smells on another person's skin a few feet away. On my friend, it smelled very pretty and powdery, somewhat like high end cosmetics, the way I often find Amouage fragrances to smell.

Bond No. 9, as a perfume house, is increasingly impressing me. They definitely know how to tickle my fancy by creating potent perfumes with sillage to spare. One complaint many have about Bond perfumes is the pricing, but with this sort of quality and longevity a 3.4 oz bottle of Success could easily last you a lifetime. I've found several favorites amongst Bond's offerings with Broadway Nite, Chinatown, Lexington Avenue, Silver Factory and New Haarlem and now I think I've found my favorite Bond of all in Success.

Notes
Top: Bergamot, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Mandarin
Heart: Pimento, Tuberose, Rose de Mai, Jasmine, Plum, Iris
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Benzoin

Just to keep a tally of new releases that I've loved in 2009; I'm crazy for Parfums d'Empire Wazamba, Sonoma Scent Studio's Tabac Aurea, By Kilian Back to Black and now Bond No. 9 Success is a job in New York. Success is really good stuff.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

A Dozen Roses: 12 More to File Under Rose

An entry on roses is some kind of folly, given that so many fragrances contain rose, even when not presided over by it. Where to begin? Where would it end? I would never propose an exhaustive list--at least at no time in the near future--but I do have personal favorites. Some of these I've already reviewed or mentioned (see the list at bottom). Others I've only recently discovered. Here, off the top off my head: a dozen roses...


Tocade (Rochas)/West Side (Bond No. 9)

These seem like companion pieces to me. Tocade is by Maurice Roucel. West Side is by Michel Almairac. Tocade is textbook Roucel, with a weird, trademark doughy quality which finds its way into a lot of what the perfumer does. West Side is boozier, deeper and darker. Tocade projects. West Side spreads out on the skin, lurking. It sometimes sneaks up on you when you least expect it. West Side seems like it will be outlasted by Tocade but ends up outrunning it. Both have a pronounced vanillic backbone, but West Side takes a little longer to bring itself out of the closet. When it does, West Side starts to resemble Tocade more clearly. Note: the booziness of West Side isn't the wine-drenched rococo of YSL Paris. Fans and detractors of West Side talk about cigarette ash and smoke, and I can understand why. West Side has that quality you get from a glass of port wine--the day after, when it smells like you feel. There's something slightly hungover about it. But Tocade can also be a tad too sugared, too tight lipped somehow. It needs to let its hair down. I like both at different times.

Noir Patchouli (Histoire de Parfums)
If ever there was a misnomer, this is it. Still, don't think you won't find patchouli here. You will. But more than anything, Noir is a study in rose and what it does with a strong dance partner. This is a beautiful rose: smooth, rich, intense. Noir? Not so much, though it isn't exactly light, either. What can a word like noir mean in perfumery at this point? It's like saying fine when someone asks you how you are. Fine can mean anything from okay to destitute. Fine means nothing and everything, as does noir. Like Blanc Violette, also by Histoire de Parfums, Noir has a woody come nutty underbelly I find pretty addictive. The longevity is great, the projection decent. This is beautiful stuff, a modern interpretation of classic rose chypres like Aromatics Elixir. It's worth the hefty price tag.

Beautiful (Estee Lauder)
I can never really determine the nose responsible for Beautiful. Some say Bernard Chant had a hand in it. I've heard other names as well. Beautiful gets slammed for its potency. To many it smells of dryer sheets. I smell tobacco and an impossibly honeyed, saturated rose. Yes, Beautiful is part of that eighties trend in forced perspective perfumery. Everything is huge, resulting in a big block of Godzilla rose, which hits you over the head with the force of a semi. I don't mind the blow, personally, as it puts my head in a pretty nice place. What's in this thing? Disregard the pyramid you find on osmoz.com. Beautiful smells nothing like the sum of its parts. When people complain of Estee Lauder fragrances, Beautiful seems to be the most oft-cited case in point. It makes statements (i.e. takes no prisoners). It commands attention and I suspect passes migraine through a room with the remorseless efficiency reserved for clouds of nerve gas. Here's the thing. I love these fragrances. There's something so powerful about them--not only literally but theoretically. Here's a perfume that can alter the emotional climate of a room.

Shocking (Schiaparelli)
I've only ever smelled the reformulation of Elsa Schiaparelli's famous fragrance. I'm told it pales in comparison to the original, though pale is probably an inept choice of word for something as bold as Shocking. As a matter of fact, Shocking relates very clearly to Beautiful, speaking in the same honeyed voice, albeit knocked down a few octaves. Shocking is the quintessential clove rose for me. I've yet to smell one I like better. What makes it for me is the tarragon, which gives an odd little herbal kick to the fragrance. The narcissus adds a camphoraceous edge, contrasting against the rose while complimenting the tarragon, which otherwise might have seemed more accidental than intentional. Again, some find this a bit strong. More for me, I guess. The original was composed by the legendary Jean Carles.

Incense Rose (Andy Tauer)
My favorite Andy Tauer fragrance, Incense Rose is a perfectly lovely mixture of frankincense and floral. It wears a lot more complicated than it sounds, and gives you a lot of time to count the ways.

Lipstick Rose (Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle)
My reaction to this stuff is purely irrational, because it has no desire to be anything like the best perfume in the world, and yet when I smell it I can't remember liking anything better. Every time I spray Lipstick Rose on I can't imagine wearing anything else ever again. It smells of waxy lipstick, true to its name, and a purely artifical rose, the kind of scent you find in cosmetics more than commercial fragrance. Lipstick Rose is about the only perfume in the Malle line which has a sense of humor about itself. That isn't to say any of them need a sense of humor, but the presence of Lipstick Rose in this line makes me think of Malle in much more generous terms. That a line with such high quality output has the confidence to put out something so richly cheap and cheerful says something about the wonderful breadth of its curatorial vision. Lipstick Rose makes the line seem less prissy, a little more uninhibited, like a private school girl who gets into Nina Simone and Britney Spears with equal fervor.

Nahema (Guerlain)
Guerlain's signature rose, Nahema is hard to find in the states. I found some at a discount store, amazingly enough. Nahema was inspired by a character Catherine Deneuve played on screen--or am I imagining this? After a while, it's hard to parse through the fact and fiction of an industry which cultivates as much secrecy and perpetuates as much outright bullshit as humanly possible in the selling and manufacturing of its product. Theoretically, I find very little relation between Deneuve--and any character she's played--and Nahema. The perfume is an odd bird for me in many ways. I shouldn't like it. There's something slightly artificial about it, I always think. A heightened fantasy of rose which is sweeter and fruitier than I might ordinarily like. There's a strangled, almost shrill peach nectar in there, brightening the rose in a way which seems half moonlight, half neon. But Nahema is extraordinary, so there's no use measuring it against typical expectations. I think what unsettles me about Nahema, and granted, it isn't easy to explain, is the sense that it never really merges with its wearer. It's a little more cat than dog that way. It remains a little aloof on the skin, as opposed to something like Beautiful, which creates a sense of depth and detail. Maybe Nahema resembles Deneuve more than I at first like to think.

Elixir (Penhaligons)
Why do people slam this so? I smelled this in a tiny Milano shop through a paper cone and wanted to have sex with the nearest inanimate object. I considered the cone, however briefly. I had trouble focusing on the SA, who was having trouble speaking my language. No matter. I hardly knew my language either anymore. Like a lot of Olivia Giacobetti's work, this fades quickly. It goes sheer, to put it charitably. But with the best of her stuff, you don't care, and I find myself not giving such a sh*t with Elixir. Cinammon red hots? Come on. Not to me. I smell a nuclear rose, molten hot, radiating off the skin in circular waves. I'm told it's an update of Blenheim Bouquet, though to me it's more like Blenheim Bouquet on acid. Didn't Turin give this something like one or two stars? Yes? Well, he doesn't like pear so much either.

Boudoir (Vivienne Westwood)
Another in a long line of much maligned. Abigail didn't like this one so much herself. I can't help it, I think it's swell. Supposedly it smells like a woman's bed after an evening of sweaty sex. Having no frame of reference, the connection fails me. I smell something vaguely related to Shocking, less the clove, nine times the honey. Picture Beautiful mixed with Miel De Bois. I smell sweet. You smell litter box. What's to be done? I'm no fan of the Westwood line of fragrances. Let it Rock is perfectly nice, but nothing I would spend my hard-earned money on. The others I've barely bothered with. Buodoir is an exception. Its absolutely an intense smell, and retro, but it really goes back no further than the eighties, which again is a problem for some but a solution for me. I wasn't forced to tease my bangs within an inch of their lives in high school, so a big-shouldered fragrance like this seems downright novel to me.

Boss No. 1 (Hugo Boss)
This is essenitally Shocking for men. Women should wear it too, naturally. It seems inconceivable that something like this would be considered masculine in 1985, the same year Beautiful came out. Then again, I'm always surprised when I look back to the masculines of the seventies and eighties and see how decidedly asexual they were/are. The man responsible is Pierre Wargnye, he behind Drakkar Noir and, more recently, Antidote. I like Antidote very much. I like it much better than a lot of other people seem to, and I see connections between the spices employed there and in Boss No. 1. Wargnye also did La Perla, which makes a lot of sense when you stand it beside No. 1. Osmoz lists this as an aromatic fougere. Well, okay. This is one case at least where the pyramid gives you a good idea what you're getting yourself into, so I'll leave it at that: jamsine, rose, honey, juniper, basil, artemisia, tobacco, cinammon, cedar, patchouli. Be forewarned. You better like patchouli.

Essence (Narciso Rodriguez)

Buy it for the bottle if you have trouble justifying the purchase for any other reason. I happen to like the book as much as its cover. Not everyone reads. Rose, violet, aldehyde. They call the violet iris; I suppose because it's more fashionable these days. I don't really care what they call it. I think this stuff smells great. If you're a guy looking for a dandy rose, this is a good place to go. The bottle will distort your face into the portrait of Dorian Grey.

Jil Sander Women III (Jil Sander)

This is very directly related to rose chypres like Aromatics Elixir and La Perla, but oh what a difference the addition of bay makes. Good luck finding it in the U.S.

Others filed under Like: Mille et Une Roses, Aramis 900, Alain Delon Iquitos, Paris, L'Artisan Voleur de Roses, Fresh Cannabis Rose, Knowing, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Lancome Tresor

Friday, September 11, 2009

My Favorite Perfume Names


No reason in particular, I just love these names and not necessarily (though, mostly) the juice:

Joy, by Jean Patou
L'Ombre dans L'Eau by Diptyque
Alahine, Teo Cabanel
La Chasse aux Papillon, L'Artisan
Cadjmere, Parfumerie Generale
Le Temps d'une Fete, Parfums de Nicolaï
Mimosaique, Parfums de Nicolaï
Evening Edged in Gold, Ineke
Balmy Days and Sundays, Ineke
Carnal Flower, Frederic Malle
Lou Lou, Cacharel (yep, I even love this hokey name)
Amarige, Givenchy
Organza, Givenchy
Coromandel, Chanel
Shalimar, Guerlain
Mitsouko, Guerlain
Tubereuse Criminelle, Serge Lutens
Chergui, Serge Lutens
Madison Soiree, Bond No. 9
Chinatown, Bond No. 9
Voile de Violette, Sonoma Scent Studio
Iris Nobile, Acqua di Parma
Wazamba, Parfum d'Empire
Baghari, Robert Piguet
Bandit, Robert Piguet
Fracas, Robert Piguet
Habanita, Molinard
Hanae, Keiko Mecheri
L'Heure Bleue, Guerlain
Heure Exquise, Annick Goutal
Poison, Dior
Hypnotic Poison, Dior
Ivoire, Balmain
Un Jardin Sur La Nil, Hermes
Philosykos, Diptyque
Rush, Gucci
Kiki, Vero
Sacrebleu, Parfums de Nicolaï
Timbuktu, L'Artisan
Ysatis, Givenchy
Teint de Neige, Lorenzo Villoresi
Lolita Lempicka

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

The Winners of LT Piver Heliotrope Blanc


I decided to choose two winners for the Heliotrope Blanc drawing.

And they are...

1. Elfriede &
2. ahsu

Please get in touch, send me your address, and your decants will be in the mail shortly.

Congrats!

Monday, September 7, 2009

An Open Letter to the Brilliant Men and Women in the Marketing Department

To Whom It May Concern,

Or does it concern you?

It concerns me. You're really boring me these days, and fine, while I know I'm not at the top of your priority list, I don't think I'm all that atypical when it comes to the general perfume buying public, if there is such a thing anymore, except that I buy about ten times (okay, thirty) as much as the average consumer.

Okay, fifty.

I just want to bring some things to your attention, though the idea that I might have to baffles me. I imagine you all in your boardrooms, sipping lattes, with testing strips fanned out before you. For a while you talk about Anna's baby. How cute! Grows like a weed. You talk about a little dish you picked up in Soho, a chicly dressed woman who told you to screw off when you took her cab--accidentally! You talk about the scarf Gina's wearing. Or Gene. Gene wears scarves, too. Eventually, you move on to Michael Jackson. When are they going to BURY that guy? Enough already. I mean, please. Then you feel embarrassed for entering Michael Jackson into the same elevated company as perfume--but don't, because, I can assure you, you have other things to be embarrassed about.

It does, it baffles me that in these conversations, you wouldn't take into consideration some of the things I'd like to point out to you here. I have to believe you're not discussing them. Why else would you keep making the same mistakes? Surely you lovely people aren't that stupid.

Let me just jump right in. Can you stop making bottles that look like the Avon collectibles my grandmother used to keep boxed in the attic. Those bottles were always more than half full, I should point out, because while a fragrance in the shape of a vintage red roadster might strike one as a fun idea in the catalog, it very quickly starts looking like a bad idea once you set it out on your bathroom shelf. Try holding it in your hand. Who besides my uncle Orville wants to spray him/herself with Roadster? I'm sure there are many women who like these decorative bottles. Some of them must be above the age of twelve. Many more women must find them absolutely cheap and silly, an embarrassment and an insult for the price of money they cost. I won't name names. Some of you people might actually have these bottles out on your own dresser. But as a rule, plastic gold trimming (meant to look like metal quilting, precious ornamentation, et al), rhinestones, scrolled caps which are bigger than the bottles themselves, hearts, and faeries are the kinds of things Barbie adorns her dream house with, and sometimes her pony. Barbie isn't actually a real person.

Can you please stop asking models to make love to themselves in print ads and media clips? It's kind of awkward. A little uncomfortable. I'm sure more than one woman has looked at a curiously shaped bottle and gotten some ideas, but remember what they say about printing how-to bomb instructions online: someone might get hurt. I don't know. I'm just not the kind of person who likes to see Kate Moss, or anyone really, masturbate in a limo. I'm not naive. I know Kate Moss probably does masturbate. I know I do, and I wouldn't want to deprive her of that, but when I choke the chicken, it isn't in the grocery aisle. Something to think about.

Do you realize how stupidly Biblical you guys are when it comes to cultivating the fantasy life around fragrance? You depict women pretty strictly as either virgins or whores. Why so misogynistic? It's like you can't picture a woman doing much of anything if she isn't pleasuring herself or writhing around like an animal in heat on a bed of roses. Are any of you women? Do any of you have mothers? The women in my family are pretty complex, and from talking to them, I don't get the idea that in their imaginary lives they aspire to featured actresses in badly filmed soft core porn.

This brings us to men, some of whom, yes, I like naked. But again, very awkward in a magazine. If I'm going to get hot and bothered, personally, I like my naked men in the flesh. And please, can you find interesting men to serve as spokesmodels? Justin Timberlake is funny. I like his d*!ck in a box. But I want something with a little more depth and character selling me fantasy. Here are some suggestions, and I'd be more than happy to help you look into their availability: Gael Garcia Bernal, Gael Garcia Bernal, and Gael Garcia Bernal. If it's sex you're trying to sell, choosing someone like Bernal really makes your job easier. Photograph his lips. There. That's done. Include his eyes and you add something approaching inner life. I'm not feeling that with a boy band crooner in a tux.

Stop playing watchdog and start paying attention to the bloggers and their audiences. This is where I really start empathizing with ya'll. See, you read something like "ya'll" and you think, oh goodness, how do we deal with these yokels out on the internet. Let's throw them little bones. You throw your bones while imagining there are still lines of power and control you can keep firmly delineated. Do you realize how democratic everything's become? Do you not see how influential bloggers have become? It's not a matter of getting us press releases, I can assure you. The idea that you're still able to imagine yourselves as omnipotent, the fact you haven't truly gathered how profoundly the market and the game has changed verges on heartbreaking. It's like you go home every night to watch Mad Men and believe it all still works that way. In your offices you decide and decree how it's all going to go down? You're cute as bunnies. I almost feel I should be protecting YOU.

Here's the thing. People who love perfume read the blogs almost fanatically because what they're getting is more often than not an honest opinion, expressed with enthusiasm and style, however crude the style can sometimes be. They know they'll never, ever get that from you, which puts you at a definite disadvantage. Let us help you. Admitting your relative powerlessness is the first step. I know, it's ironic: for decades you people have divested yourself of anything which becomes more specific or particular than a bottom line, believing that abiding by the lowest common denominator wins you in immediate sales what you lose in long term loyalty. Bless your hearts.

Visit these sites and pay attention to the comments. The people who buy your product are pretty sharp, generally savvy, artsy, somewhat evolved, versed in high and low culture alike. I wouldn't argue that all of us are the sharpest bulbs in the box, but as a whole we're smarter than the average Doberman. We read Nathan Branch because he's funny and says what we're all thinking at various points. We read NowSmellThis because anything that's happening will be reported there, with an opportunity for us to voice our own honest opinions about it. Pieredepierre, Scented Salamander, Perfume Smelling Things, One Thousand Scents, 1000 Fragrances, Perfume Posse, Vetivresse. You really should write these down. I'll wait.

Check out Olfactarama as a case in point. This is an intelligent, witty, no-bullshit perfume lover who happens to write very well, articulating, most recently (like today) how boring you all (i.e. ya'll) have become. She really counts the ways. I'm not sure she evaluates your success in terms of how convincingly Kate Moss masturbates. You should also check out Nathan Branch's photos, with your eyes open, for a sense of how beautiful perfume itself is (the packaging, the lines, the ideas, the inner glow) when done smartly, how little it takes to capture the allure and fantasy of fragrance, how little flesh is ultimately needed. Nathan knows that some people fall in love with perfume not because it reminds them of people dry humping in a field of tall grass but because they have complicated imaginations which can be sparked in simple (as opposed to simplistic) ways. Indie and niche perfumers recognize his value in moving their product. Sometimes he even gets free bottles. Hint, hint.

Sincerely (truly),

Your devoted servant