Showing posts with label Creed Love in Black. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Creed Love in Black. Show all posts

Friday, June 11, 2010

Berdoues Violette Divine

Berdoues is a French perfume house established in the early 1900’s with it’s original violet fragrance, Violettes de Toulouse. Violet soliflores were a huge trend, an absolute craze, during the early twentieth century, similar to the fruity floral phenomena of the past decade. The house of Berdoues has managed to stick around all these years and has now added two new violet scents to their repertoire. Their original, Violettes de Toulouse, is a typical violet fragrance, very similar to Borsari Violetta di Parma. It is sweet and pleasant but possesses that plastic-y note I can’t stand. Their other new violet fragrance is Violet Cherie, which is aimed at a younger consumer, essentially a violet-fruity-floral.

Last year Berdoues introduce a heartier, denser violet called Violette Divine. I admit it was solely the packaging that caused me to purchase this one. The boxes are darling and the bottles are retro chic, plus they were on sale at Parfum1.com! I wasn’t expecting much and wouldn’t have been upset had I not liked Violette Divine. But the good news is that I like it. Violette Divine is a nice sweet violet, more potent than most, with a woodier dry down and no plastic note.

I can’t find a straight list of notes anywhere so here is the mumbo jumbo ad copy: “Intense, powerful and sensual, it opens with notes of mandarin. The heart is magical with violet and cedar, while the romantic base consists of sandalwood.” It starts off almost like a violet gourmand to me. There’s something highly vanillic and syrupy at the start. But if this puts you off, don’t worry, this is brief and the vanilla fades away to mostly a dense violet note. A sweet, deep purple violet note with a touch of spice and a mild woody base. This is nice. It is not exceptional or even especially good, but it’s nice. My favorite violets are still firmly in place: Creed Love in Black (for a sweet, edgy take), Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette (for a cheerful, jammy, flirty violet) and Penhaligon’s Violetta (for a fresh, green, unisex violet) and Annick Goutal La Violette (for an old school violet soliflore that isn’t too sweet or powdery, and doesn’t have plastic).

If you don’t already like violet fragrances Violette Divine isn’t going to change that, but if you enjoy violet scents and collect a variety of them you might want this one, if not just for the pretty packaging.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Fantasia de Fleurs

Every time I think I've exhausted the line, some Creed I've never heard of swerves into my direct line of view. It sometimes feels as though Creed were like a bottomless cup of coffee at Denny's or the glass someone keeps filling for me at a party when I'm turned the other way. Do I just get overwhelmed? Maybe the pricing numbs my perceptions and my faculties start to shut down. I still have a pretty hefty bias against Creed. I'm not sure exactly why, if price point is the turn off mechanism we're talking about. The fragrances can be found at reasonable prices online (I've never paid "full price" for a bottle), and as time goes on they don't seem all that expensive in relation to the other niche lines I patronize.

The result is that even with Creed's I've seen a dozen times, I don't keep much of an open mind. It took me ages to even smell Irisia--to simply pick up the tester bottle and sniff, let alone spray the stuff on a card. Lo and behold, I loved it. Likewise Love in Black, which featured violet, one of my holy grails. Abigail, my blogging partner (would this term have seemed like anything but science fiction ten or fifteen years ago?) has played a big part in my experiences with Creed over the last year or so: I've tagged along as she treks through the line's bounty, giving everything from Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie to Tubereuse Indiana to Fleur de The Rose Bulgarie new perspective. Still, fixed ideas run deep, and even a more recent discovery like Fantasia de Fleurs seems like some kind of revelation to me. Can someone please hold this rock I've been hiding under?

I first smelled Fantasia de Fleurs the day I finally decided to purchase Irisia. Because of my bias against Creed I do this little dance. I visit and revisit the fragrances I like. I weigh the decision to buy or not to buy like it's some life or death dilemma, in a way I would never do with something I loved from Frederic Malle, Parfum d'Empire, or Serge Lutens. I spray some on and walk away. I roam around smelling it. I go home thinking about it as it fades and becomes a memory, and the memory haunts me a little as I try to remember just how much I liked it and why. I return to the store and repeat this all over again.

Fantasia de Fleurs had some stiff competition that day, as it was make or break time with Irisia, but I remember perking up at the smell of it, like Hold up, what's THIS? I'd never heard of it, I thought, but I read so much online about perfume that I know that can't be true. More likely, the name was white noise to me. Oh goody; another Creed floral. Now I read all the reviews, which are remarkably favorable. Fantasia is one of those Creeds people seem to unanimously appreciate, with a few general caveats: very strong stuff, and gorgeous if you're into that kind of thing. I did my little dance back to the store.

Fantasia strikes me as a love child of Poison and Joy. You either can't go wrong or you're doomed to excess with such a combination, depending on your perspective. Poison is one of my favorite fragrances ever, nuclear strength magic in a bottle, and Joy is pretty special too in my personal perfume canon, so naturally Fantasia speaks to me in a pretty compelling voice. That said, I would advise people who don't like Poison, or Joy, or do like one but not the other, not to hold this against Fantasia. It lacks the things about each which detractors tend to consider biggest offenses. Fantasia has no tuberose. There are no indoles, that I can tell. It isn't spiced like a meal served up to someone who's lost his sense of taste.

To be sure, Fantasia is strong stuff, but it mellows fairly quickly. It is spiced, but faintly, giving it much of its dissonant appeal. The iris, however undetectable, must go some way toward bringing the rose into the present century. One of the things Fantasia's fans point out is how modern the fragrance feels, given what it is. Judging it against a cursory glance at the local mall's inventory, I'm not inclined to agree. But I see the overall point; Fantasia isn't stuffy, and while it recalls or evokes a certain kind of brocaded, heavy velvet fantasy of centuries past, it doesn't feel out of place in this one. It has a formality to it, but it doesn't fall into that grandmotherly gap between something your ancestors subjected their families to and something you might wear on a night out.

Note to fact-checkers: Some people DO find something slightly indolic here, making the fragrance more of a Fantasia de Feces. I really don't, but you should be aware that not everyone agrees with me, as if you didn't already know. Some DO consider Fantasia stuffy, though it seems to me these are generally people who aren't much into anything so unapologetically floral. I think of Fantasia as an interesting precursor to Amaranthine, without the sugared facets. That isn't to say it has anything remotely like cumin in it either. But it does represent another way of scuffing up what might otherwise be a relatively staid floral. Like most Creeds I've experienced, Fantasia lasts well, persisting into a slightly musky, amber dry down that stays close to the skin without hugging it for dear life.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

More Surprises: Creed Love in Black Revisited

Months back, Abigail sent me a sample of Creed's Love in Black. I liked it enough but it failed to capture my attention and imagination in any specific or enduring way. In retrospect, I suppose it had to do with the fact that there were other things I was busy anticipating, and it was hot outside, which probably doesn't do many fragrances any favors. What I'm starting to realize is how deeply price influences my initial judgment of a fragrance. I practically dismiss a fragrance I feel is too big for its britches. Two hundred something for 2.5 ounces? I mean, really.

I still think Love in Black is overpriced, but I found a much more affordable bottle, which prompted me to reconsider it. I sprayed some on my arm and walked around the mall with it. How had its remarkable longevity escape unnoticed? This stuff lasts. In some ways, it also seems completely different to me now. What seemed like a weirdly fuzzy violet before now smells lactonic, woodsy, and nutty as well, all good things in this case.

I looked at Abigail's review again on the blog and was amazed how evocative her description is, how close to what I smell now. Like her, I've always been totally impervious to the alleged charms of Creed. Before I heard of any other niche brand, people in shops which "exclusively" carried it were pimping it on me. I saw the price and smiled a withering no-thank-you smile I've practiced on many a sales assistant since. I liked Angelique Encens okay. More recently, I fancied Irisia enough to spend time considering a bottle. The rest, even those I hear talked about the most online, not so much. The row of bottles was like background music to me.

Yes, okay, everyone's doing an iris. It's the pink pepper of the moment, an ubiquitous marker of the perfume zeitgeist. And yes, many of them smell derivative at this point; some of them even when they were the first out the gate. And fine, hardened critics (not naming names) think Love in Black is a trifling thing, capitalizing on the vogue for new aroma-chemicals. But my needs and tastes are sometimes simple things. Love in Black smells wonderful to me.

I place it somewhere around the Stephen Jones fragrance for Comme des Garçons. They share a certain metallic vibe somehow, like violets plucked from the soil and plopped into a tin can. Love in Black's can is, admittedly, a little more rustic. It goes through interesting stages on my skin, as well, without ever feeling thinned out or otherwise diminished. Truth be told, I like it far better than Bois de Violette, though I understand that lightning will now strike me dead. Where Bois de Violette, however lovely, seemed superficially austere to me (a one trick pony), Love in Black uses its woods more interestingly, creating more depth and texture to the smell.

People seem to think that the name and the packaging are entirely off the mark, given this was a scent inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Me, I see the logic. The black bottle makes me think of the black Lincoln Town Car in Dallas, Jackie's dark oversize sunglasses, funeral attire, the black and white images by Ron Galella revealing her masked irritation at the invasion of the public into her private life. The silver and velvet detailing juxtaposes soft and sturdy. In this sense, the contrast between the packaging and the scent, which isn't as dark as some expect, makes very good sense to me. This, to me, is Jackie O, not young Jacqueline, and Creed has intelligently played around with the intrinsic myths and contradictions of her public persona. The tiny, delicate voice. The steely will. The mixture of elegant understatement and over the top detail. That big black helmet of hair, theoretically soft, practically rock hard. I look at pictures of Jackie and wonder what was going on behind those sunglasses, however bright the smile, and Love in Black plays out that enigmatic tension wonderfully.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Comme des Garcons x Stephen Jones: A Review


It’s been a big year for the diminutive little violet. There was Feerie, Creed Love in Black, Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras (if this smells like violets to you, then you’re luckier than me), Guerlain Insolence (the EdP launched in ‘08, the EdT launched in ’06, so Guerlain was ahead of the crowd), and now CdG x Stephen Jones (CdGxSJ) have tried their hand at violet.

I guess I shouldn’t insinuate that CdGxSJ are followers, going with the violet trend like many other perfume houses, because who else decided to mix violets with meteorite? If the aroma of meteorite isn’t an original scent then I don’t know what is.

Well…that isn’t so true, actually. CdGxSJ reminds me a lot of Creed’s Love in Black. Back in July, I described Love in Black as smelling like violets and tar, or an asphalt driveway with beautiful little violets strewn about. If CdGxSJ hadn’t listed meteorite among the notes I would have gone with the tar or pavement analogy with this fragrance, too. CdGxSJ really does remind me a lot of Creed Love in Black. It’s striking me as odd, that a perfume house like CdG, who seem to pride themselves on avante garde fragrances teetering on the edge of being unwearable (at times) would create something so similar to a staid and traditional perfume house such as Creed.

CdGxSJ does smell really good. I like Creed Love in Black and I also like CdGxSJ. Earlier this year, Brian, my co-writer for this blog, made it his project to help me understand and enjoy violet scents which I previously didn’t like. Well, for the most part, I still don’t like the ultra-girly, soft and powdery violets scents, but I do love this new batch of violet scents that growl instead of purr. CdGxSJ has created a violet scent that is recognizably violet but with the addition of a mineral-y quality as well as a slight woodiness, that makes it drier and fresher than the violet fragrances of yesteryear. If you like violet scents paired with unusual notes then this is a must try.

Lots of us refer to spicy, skanky rose fragrances as a “dirty rose” scent. “Dirty violet” now strikes me as the perfect categorization for CdGxSJ and this new crop of violet scents.

The packaging is fabulous. The bottle looks like an old fashioned ink well and comes in a little hat-box with funky fish-net wrapping – tres chic. But, again, there's another similarity here: the bottle reminds me a bit of the new CK Secret Obsessions bottle....hmmmm.

CdGxSJ notes: violet leaf, meteorite, cloves, carnation, rose, violet, jasmin, heliotrope, gaïac wood, magma, black cumin, vetiver, amber

Longevity: Good 4+ hours
Sillage: Light
Star rating: 4

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Van Cleef & Arpels Féerie: A Review

I’m thinking violet is the new iris. Or the new pink pepper, lychee, you know how the perfume industry is, the new trendy note du jour. It just seems like everything is coming up violets lately.

I must be the only person on the planet that hates this bottle. The top of it looks like a weapon; you could injure yourself with that thing. It just reminds me of a cheapie novelty gift one would buy at Walt Disney World…Tinkerbelle from Peter Pan…that’s what it makes me think of. I like Lolita Lempicka’s enchanting little bottles, but this one just doesn’t do it for me. It seems gaudy not classy.

Féerie is described as a woody floral with violet as the predominant note developed by perfumer Antoine Maisondieu.

Van Cleef & Arpels lists the notes as:
Top: violet, red berries (black currant), Italian mandarin;
Heart: Bulgarian rose and Egyptian jasmine;
Base: iris butter and vetiver.

It opens exactly as the top notes are written, in that exact order. I smelled sweet violet, then berries then citrus. It remained a “berry sweet violet” on me for awhile, perhaps a full hour. Someone who loves sweet violets will love this. As you might imagine, it’s very girly and makes me think of springtime. I waited for many hours and never did smell the supposed “woodsy” quality. After the dry down it became a bit less sweet and perhaps I could smell a smidgen of iris if I really really focused but had I not known what the notes were, I would have simply thought it was violets and berries.

In a nutshell, Féerie is a pretty and sweet violet fragrance. It’s basically Creed Love in Black minus the edginess. Féerie is an easily worn and very mainstream fragrance.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Creed Love in Black: A Review

I must admit to not being a huge Creed fan. I really like Fleurissimo, and have bought about 3 bottles of it and wore it quite often in the late 90’s, but I’ve never loved another Creed fragrance. Creed’s Love in White wasn’t to my liking at all. But when I read the list of notes for Love in Black (henceforth LiB) I was immediately curious: Greek wildflowers, Violet, Virginia cedar, Iris from Firenze, Clove, Tonkin musk, Violet from Grasse, Bourgogne blackcurrant, & Rose (taken from Creed press release).

LiB starts off with a blast of violet/iris and tar, almost like a hot asphalt driveway on a 100 degree day. LiB remains fairly linear; the violet, iris and floral notes settle atop this tarry dark stew and eventually blend seamlessly into an unusual floral aroma. This is particularly unusual for Creed. I’d go so far as to call LiB rather edgy for a Creed fragrance. The floral notes are sweet but the tarry, musky, spicy notes definitely counteract any overdone sweetness and create a nicely balanced aroma - perfectly sweet and dry at once. After a few hours, LiB becomes a smidgen powdery, but in a good way; overall I don’t smell much other than the violet, iris, tar and musk notes and it doesn’t morph into something very different or complex. I rather like LiB, more than I anticipated I would. I’ve worn it three times now and each day I liked it more. It has nice sillage, so it’s not a close to the skin fragrance, and it also has good lasting power. I’m a stickler for lasting power so I’m pleased when I can still smell LiB on my skin at the end of the day. LiB is most definitely a unisex scent, but then again, I’m of the thinking that anyone should wear anything they want.

For another review of Creed's Love in Black, check out Marlen’s at PerfumeCritic.com

http://www.perfumecritic.com


For purchasing information and everything you need to know about CREED: http://www.creedperfumes.us/