Parfums de Nicolaï: Number One Intense

There aren't many Parfums de Nicolaï fragrances I don't at least like a lot, and some, like Maharanih Intense, are among my favorites. Several of those I like most are a little more formally innovative or inventive than my ultimate favorite, Number One Intense. Vie de Chateau, for instance, with its curious hay note, is full of subtle, elegant herbal twists. Nicolaï Pour Homme always surprises me, somehow. And yet not one of these satisfies me more than Number One, which seems so pure and perfect in its way that I realize I'd rather be fulfilled sometimes than startled.

Number One was, aptly, my first Nicolaï purchase. Recently, at the Perfume House in Portland, where an older bottle was still in stock, a friend opened it and smelled it and nothing else seemed as good to me in the store. I remembered instantly how much I love it. I would classify Number One as an amber floriental I guess. For a while I thought it was a lot like Hermes 24, Faubourg, another amber floral which seems illuminated from within - until I compared the two side by side. They have a lot in common, but alongside Number One, 24 seems, if not shrill, then a little heavy on the treble. Faubourg seems more like a citrus cologne by comparison.

Number One was created in 1989, which makes sense, because that era produced a lot of my favorites. Like a lot of those '80s fragrances, Number One is rich to the point of plush, but where a lot of those scents have conjured the analogous big shouldered outfits of their time, Number One, despite all its voluble drama, feels softened and remarkably supple, a symphony heard through velvet. Part of this, I suspect, is the restraint shown with tuberose, which in many eighties frags becomes their sole reason for being. The tuberose in Number One plays nicely with the other florals - namely, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, and orang blossom - allowing all of them to show something of themselves. There's a unique harmony to the fragrance.

The base of amber, oakmoss, and sandalwood shows, for me, the kind of durability and backbone emphasis most fragrances need a hefty dose of patchouli to achieve. Number One is the rare fragrance I imagine patchouli would have ruined rather than improved. And I like to think the use of tagetes up top gives it some level of distinction often lacking in its eighties brethren. The fragrance is perfectly judged and balanced and I couldn't imagine it any other way. It lasts all day on me, without, by the end of the day, feeling more like the day after.

I understand, I think, why it isn't discussed more often. Revisiting Number One recently started me thinking about the way we "review" fragrances. There are so many - so many in existence and so many emerging. It's easy to fall into judging them by what they do that something else hasn't, when sometimes, as with Number One, what they do different is simply, for a change, get it wonderfully right.

Painting: "Torrid Day" by Jane Wilson

Annick Goutal Le Mimosa

It’s no secret that I’m a huge Annick Goutal fangirl. Early last year I wrote a week-long tribute about several of their most amazing fragrances. Annick Goutal, for me, is the epitome of quality, class, sophistication and beauty. Every single fragrance from Annick Goutal is exceptional quality and I can even appreciate the few I don’t like, which for the record are Mandragore, Petite Cherie and Ninfeo Mio. To not like a mere three out of a very long line-up is pretty amazing. And it’s not that I don’t think these fragrances aren't good, it’s simply that they aren’t my style.

It’s probably also not a secret that I adore mimosa. Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique and L’Artisan Mimosa pour Moi are two of my favorites for spring and summer. Ironically, I don’t think I’ve ever smelled mimosa flowers in real life so when I smell mimosa prominent fragrances I can only assume that Mimosaique and Mimosa pour Moi smell somewhat like the real thing. The idea that Annick Goutal created a mimosa fragrance to add to their Les Soliflores collection was like a dream come true and I’ve been waiting with baited breath for its arrival. I love every single other soliflore in Goutal’s collection; especially Le Chevrefeuille which is like honeysuckle iced tea to me. Oh, and AG’s Neroli is fabulous. But I could go on and on and on about all their fragrances which are absolutely fantastic (Songes, Heure Exquise, Rose Splendide, Eau de Ciel, Ambre Fetiche, Encens Flamboyant, Sables, Un Matin d’Orage...seriously...I may as well list the entire line).

Sadly, I’m pretty bummed out about this, but Le Mimosa didn’t live up to my expectations. Sure, it comes in an adorable polka-dotted box with polka-dotted ribbon and as a little girl I had a fascination with polka-dots from about age 3-9 (I still remember the pink & purple polka-dot curtains in my bedroom with matching bedspread and sheets). So, as you can imagine, Le Mimosa comes housed in all sorts of cuteness and this level of adorable girlishness does give one a preview of how the fragrance smells. It’s a very young, girlish, cute and innocent fragrance. You might say all mimosa scents are like this and I wouldn’t disagree with you. But Le Mimosa turns out to be much more about peach, pear and a slight juicy greenness and very little to do with actual mimosa. Le Mimosa, like all scents from Annick Goutal is quite lovely, especially if you think you would enjoy a sweet little peachy-pear-floral, but if you’re expecting a true mimosa solifore I think you’ll be disappointed.

To me, Keiko Mecheri Peau de Peche is the best peach fragrance ever created with its oh-so-delicate fuzzy peach skin quality. It’s probably two or three times per year when I yearn to smell a bit peachy, and the Keiko Mecheri is what I’d reach for. Annick Goutal’s Le Mimosa has both peach and pear notes along with what I’ve previously described as “plant juice” essence (I think it was Hermessence Iris Ukiyoe the last time I described this “plant juice” quality). I actually like the overall scent of Le Mimosa, but can’t get past the fact that it doesn’t smell enough like mimosa nor is it truly my style. It reminds me of AG’s Petite Cherie, which, as stated above, is one of the few Goutal’s I don’t wear. Although for the record, I like Le Mimosa much more than Petite Cherie and would gladly wear it over Petite Cherie.

I didn’t need or want another mimosa scent that smelled especially similar to L’Artisan Mimosa Pour Moi or Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique so I’m glad the AG Mimosa isn’t in the same vein. One of the biggest differences is that the L’Artisan and PdN both use heavy doses of what I’d describe as heliotrope, giving both fragrances almost a fluffy, powdery quality. There is nothing in the way of heliotrope or a powdery sensation in the Goutal Mimosa – so perhaps for some this will be exactly what they are looking for. I was so curious to smell AG’s version of a mimosa soliflore and I’m left wishing they had amped up the mimosa note about a million times over. If the mimosa note was more prominent it probably would better compliment the peachy-pear-greenness a good deal; similar to the way apricot compliments osmanthus so divinely. Or maybe it’s my chemistry, perhaps the mimosa note just doesn’t show up on me.

As with all perfumes, your experience may vary, so even though I’m disappointed with Le Mimosa, you might still give this one a shot if you’re a Goutal fan or a lover of fresh, fruity florals. Even though I’m not head over heels for Le Mimosa its still one of the best fruity florals launched in the past year.

Notes: bergamot, anise, mimosa, iris, sandalwood, musk, peach

TWRT 6.4.10

This Week’s Random Thoughts

Hello fragrance friends...it’s been awhile. Life has gotten in the way plus I’ve had very little interest in perfume. It happens I guess.

I found the best coconut fragrance: Profumi del Forte Vittoria Apuana. This is even better than Parfums de Nicolaï Cocacabana because it stays coconut and doesn’t turn into orange & sandalwood.

It’s 95 degrees in Santa Fe today. Dry heat is so much more manageable than humidity. It’s not a myth, it’s true.

I’ve realized I don’t like strong cedar notes. Probably the reason why I can’t get into SL Bois de Violette, it’s all cedar, all the time, on me.

Some new fragrances I’m loving:
Heeley Oranges & Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clements: This wins the longest name prize; it’s longer than Bond No. 9 Success is a Job in New York. But what does it smell like you ask? It’s a beautiful citrus neroli, very similar to Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier but more citrusy and zesty.

Profumum Ninfea: beautiful powdery rose, along the same idea as L’Artisan Drole de Rose but greener and more potent.

Bond No. 9 Saks-en-Rose is another powdery rose I’ve mentioned before. If you like this sort of soft, green, slightly powdery pink rose, give this a shot, it’s nice.

Santa Maria Novella Melograno: ok so this isn’t new but it’s new to me. I love it. I have no idea what a pomegranate smells like but this is powdery (not talcum powder, but perhaps orris root powder), slight incense and slight sweet tartness. It’s unusual.

I simply cannot wait for Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre. A bottle is on the way.

American Idol is over and for the second year in a row the wrong contestant won.

My favorite new beauty item: Silk pillowcases. Not satin but raw silk. These are so amazing for your skin and hair. You don’t wake up looking like a cat dragged you through the bushes backwards, and supposedly there will be less wrinkles (jury is still out on this but it makes some sense).

Once you go Greek, you never go back. Yogurt. I’m talking about Greek yogurt. Chobani brand especially.

This time of year I become wistful. I see cars decorated by high school students, “We Made It! Class of 2010!” I regain that feeling of hope, freedom, joy and slight anxiety that I felt so many years ago. It’s a tingly sensation.

Did you know Martha Stewart was a model before she became Mistress of the Domestic Domain? That’s her in the photo above.

I’m having a rose phase. Une Rose is so beautiful it’s distracting. Sonoma Scent Studio Vintage Rose is so palpably juicy, jammy and plushy petals over wood. Serge Lutens Sa Majest La Rose is pure and simple rose perfection. Amouage Lyric, though not especially about pure roses, makes me want to roll around in it.

Nurse Jackie is such a great show. The characters are fantastic. My interest in The United States of Tara has waned. Similar to Weeds (which I couldn’t stomach after season 2) the main character annoys the heck out of me. True Blood begins again in a few weeks – yayyyy!

Where has Caron Montaigne been all my life? I haven’t a clue why I never bothered to try it but it’s a beautiful fruity floral. Vintage yet modern. Soft yet potent.

My beverage of the past month has been iced tea. Unsweetened iced tea with a splash of white grape juice for sweetness.

Sandwich of the week: tuna salad wrap. I’ve been mixing tuna with light mayo, diced celery and red onion, adding celery salt and pepper, then topping with dill pickles and tomato. The only tuna I eat is Bumble Bee solid white albacore in the gold colored label. Sometimes I sprinkle chopped cilantro or basil across the top, too.
Have a fragrant weekend everyone!

Quick Notes

I've sniffed a lot of fragrances lately. None have compelled me to write full glowing reviews but many have been better than average.

Atelier Grand Neroli
I’ve been impressed with the Atelier line. They are all (except Bois Blond, I haven’t tried that one yet) refreshing cologne-type scents with better than average longevity for colognes. Their marketing states that they have high percentages of essential oil/fragrance so I guess we ought to expect better longevity.
Grand Neroli is a nice refreshing orange blossom with only a little soapy quality. Overall it’s very good. If you already have several neroli/orange blossom scents which you like then there’s no need to try this. But if you adore neroli and can’t have enough of them then you ought to try Grand Neroli.

Atellier Oolang Infini
I expected something different from Oolang Infini but what I got was a pleasant Earl Grey tea scent. It begins with a big bergamot note and dries down to a lightly woody base. I expected to love this the most yet it’s my least favorite from the line so far.

Atelier Orange Sanguinne
I generally don’t go out of my way for citrus scents but Orange Sanguinne is just the sort of citrus I can love. It’s the scent of blood oranges with a fizzy orange haze hanging all about. Orange Sanguinne reminds me of what I’ve written about Guerlain Insolence eau de parfum (violets in neon lights) because I would describe Orange Sanguinne as blood oranges in neon lights. And the great part for me is that Orange Sanguinne doesn’t go sour (or turn into the dreaded urine note). It stays sweet oranges and never ventures into ‘citrus gone bad’ alley.

Atelier Trefle Pur
Trefle Pur is one fragrance at the start and then another one once dried down. It begins all happy clover fields with cotton tailed rabbits nibbling on dandeloins. It’s natural, cheerful, slightly green and refreshing. There’s an obvious herbal/basil note at the start as well as a kaffir lime leaf (to my nose, not listed amongst the notes). Once Trefle Pur dries down it morphs into a darker green mossy type scent. This isn’t truly mossy, it’s probably vetiver, but the overall vibe is dry green moss. After about 90 minutes Trefle Pur reminds me slightly of Ô de Lancome with more innocence.

Bond No 9 High Line
Another pretty bottle with nice jus but not something I love. Again, I can imagine there being fans of this green floral. It’s nice enough. In style, High Line reminds me of J’Adore or Magnolia Nobile. I would call this a sharp green floral. And the bottle is my favorite from Bond so far.

Bond No 9 Saks-en-Rose
Now this is a pretty rose scent. Saks-en-Rose is a slightly powdery, honeyed rose. It has a classic structure yet it is simpler and lighter than most classic rose fragrances. This is quite pretty - I’m wearing it today and enjoying it.

Tauer Perfumes Orange Star
Orange Star is not something I would have tried if I hadn't purchased a bottle for The Posh Peasant. But lo and behold I think Mr. Tauer has done a really nice job. Orange Star is a meditation on citrus but it is also a proper perfume, not simply a refreshing hesperedic tonic. Orange Star has a wonderful base (coming to be known as Tauerade) consisting of a creamy ambergris with a nice heft and depth in contrast to the fizzy orange-y top notes. Katie Puckrik compared Orange Star to pixy sticks and I do smell this at the start but once Orange Star dries down I think it's unusual and nice. This is one that I find a bit cerebral. I know that might seem odd since it's been compared with candy but there's a lot going on here. It keeps me sniffing and I think it's growing on me more and more. Oh, and the bottle? Bravo to Mr. Tauer! It's a great new design.

Vivara by Emilio Pucci
I love these bottles. They remind me of my Aunt Anne who collects paperweights. The bottles are almost like Prada (the funky design in the cap) meets Pucci paperweight. Vivara is a nice enough green floral. In fact, I can imagine lots of people loving this. I just have so many better green florals. At the moment, it’s making a pretty paperweight on my desk.

Vivara Sole 149 by Emilio Pucci
Anything with a tomato leaf note is something I’m going to try. There are three flankers to the original Vivara and I like Sole 149 a great deal. It’s along the lines of Parfums de Nicolaï Week-end a Deauville or Chanel Cristalle. I would be head over heels in love with this if it weren’t so fleeting. It might last an hour on me. But I do love it for the hour I can smell it.

Parfums de Nicolaï Cococabana

Parfum de Nicolaï Cococabana is the best tropical coconut scent I’ve ever smelled. I am NOT a lover of tropical scents but I love PdN Cococabana. It is true to nature, and it’s precisely because it smells so natural that sets it apart from other sweet fruity tropical “nothings” made for tweens.

I admit I never would have tried Cococabana until after reading Luca Turin’s review in The Guide. Cococabana would never have appealed to me, but LT’s review piqued my interest.

Cococabana opens with a sweet creamy coconut milk note along with an almost coconut “nutty” note, perhaps a bit like the outside husk of a coconut. The coconut note is obvious at first, but it is done with a light hand, the prominence of coconut fades slightly as the perfumes dries down. In the beginning I also smell pineapple, mango and what I imagine to be an orchid-type accord (these fruits and florals are not listed among the 'official' notes but it’s what I smell). Once the fragrance dries down a smooth sandalwood and cedar wood note emerges which blends seamlessly with the coconut. This woody coconut aroma is a brilliant blend – it’s blissfully tropical – but one that you can enjoy and won’t sicken you and make you think of suntan oils. The juicy pineapple note fades eventually (completely on me) and an orange note emerges – it’s this orange note along with the sandalwood + cedar + coconut notes that linger on me for hours. I find it utterly charming, soothing, and not particularly sweet upon dry down. Cococabana starts off sweet but dries down to only a mildy sweet woody orange scent. I’m surprised by how much I enjoy Cococabana. Realistically, there is definitely a time and a place for this scent. I’ve enjoyed wearing it in warmer weather – I can certainly imagine bringing it along with me for an island getaway and applying it lavishly! But I can also see myself wearing it once in awhile during the dreary winter months as a mood enhancer.
I’ve been increasingly impressed by Parfums de Nicolaï. Mimosaique is my favorite mimosa scent of all time. Sacre Bleu! is gorgeous and Odalisque is better than Diorissimo (ack! I said that). I also love the fact that you can buy PdN parfums in a 30 ml size – choices are 30 or 50 ml which is fantastic for us perfume-aholics who don’t want huge bottles. The 30 ml size is $45 which seems a bargain for such a high quality fragrance.

I believe Beauty Habit carries both the 30 & 50 ML sizes while Luckyscent only carries the 50 ML size.

Rating: 4.5 stars
Longevity: excellent
Sillage: perfect – not too light and not too heavy

Notes (taken from Luckyscent):
coconut, bitter oranges, ylang-ylang, tuberose, cedar wood and palm

Cartier So Pretty: A Review

Brian told me Cartier’s So Pretty was really good. I bought it unsniffed. He says I’m highly suggestible. He’s right, but I also trust his nose.

So Pretty arrived a few days ago. It is aptly named. Perhaps more appropriate would be *SO* Pretty. Before writing this review, I poked around online, to find the list of notes and see what others have to say about it. I’m surprised to find very few reviews. The Non-Blonde just wrote a review a few weeks ago where she noted her surprise at how little has been written about this gorgeous perfume. (Brian, is there where you found out about So Pretty?!).

So Pretty is an ultra feminine scent, but it’s not girly. A real adult woman can wear So Pretty with confidence. So Pretty starts off smelling like a fruity rose floral hovering at the edge of a modern chypre. I know I just wrote the dreaded words “fruity floral” but So Pretty is not insipid or thin instead it’s quite classic with some “heft” and depth. I agree with The Non-Blonde that So Pretty is a classic floral in the same vein as Annick Goutal’s Grand Amour and Guerlain’s Chamade – I would also include Yvresse, Joy, Rive Gauche, 1000 and Parfums de Nicolaï Odalisque as being perfumes in a similar style with So Pretty. If I had to categorize So Pretty I’d call it a classic *fresh* floral – it doesn’t have much in the way of spices, musk or woods – so it’s mainly a well-blended abstract dewy floral scent.

Cartier So Pretty is a beautiful fragrance and one that deserves more high praise.

Longevity: excellent, 5+ hours
Sillage: good, depending on application could be strong, 2-3 spritzes are plenty
Rating: 4 starts

This review is based upon the eau de parfum – I do not know how the eau de toilette compares.

Basenotes list the notes as: mandarin, dewberry, neroli, iris, diamond orchid, rose, sandalwood, musk

TWRT 12.5.08

I’m just not a white floral type. I wore Parfums de Nicolaï Number One today. It’s an award winning and beautiful perfume but it just doesn’t compel me to wear it again. I like it, but it’s not me.

Jo Malone’s Pomegranate Noir seems perfect for the holidays. The scent actually reminds me of Christmas.

Andy Tauer. OMG. I’m now a big fan. Vetiver Dance (gorgeous) and L’Air du desert Marocain (sublime). Vetiver Dance morphs quite a bit – it actually became stronger the longer I wore it and turned into such a different fragrance once dried down.

Liz Zorn’s (SOIVOHLE’) newest fragrance called Tobacco & Tullel is on my must try list. Notes are: Ambrette Seed, tonka Bean, cumin, cassis, valerian, jasmine absolute, sweet almond, rose, guiac, cedar, orris butter, cruelty free beach harvested ambergris, natural green oakmoss.
I’m wondering about the cruelty free beach harvested ambergris though ;-)

I’m annoyed about paying $10 for the newest installment of The Guide. I know it’s only $10. But still.

After I wrote the review of the three mimosa scents yesterday I had to talk myself down from purchasing 3 bottles of the Harvest Amarige. I worry, you know? There are only so many bottles of a limited edition.

Dexter is in the trunk. Seriously, did you ever think that would happen? I’m so excited for Sunday night.

I saw Zack & Miri make a porno – not so funny. In fact, I tend to over think movies and became disturbed afterwards. Why is Seth Rogan such a hot commodity right now? He doesn’t do anything for me.

I went to a diner last night (random fact: New Jersey has more diners than any other state in the U.S.) and even though Thanksgiving has just passed and I should be so tired of turkey I ordered an open face turkey sandwich. I don’t think I’ve ever ordered anything different from a diner.

Like sunflower seeds? You’ve got to try these amazing chocolate covered sunflower seeds called Sunny Seed Drops. I bought some from Whole Foods Market then found them online from Nuts Online for much cheaper. A great holiday gift.

I love Beauty Habit. Their 25% off sales have been wonderful (and painful).

Three Mimosa Scents: Givenchy Harvest 2007 Amarige Mimosa, L’Artisan Mimosa Pour Moi & Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique

There are three floral notes that, when done well, make me swoon like crazy – orange blossom, linden and mimosa. I’ve smelled orange blossom and linden in nature and they’re two of the most mesmerizing fragrances on the planet. I haven’t yet come across mimosa in nature so I can only imagine what it must smell like. When I think about these three scents, I realize there’s a similarity – they’re all are rather light, airy, sweet yet green.

I did a bit of research about mimosa since I’m unfamiliar with the plant. I found that the mimosa used in perfumery (usually listed as acacia or acacia farnesiana) grows in southern France and Italy with bright yellow blooms. There is a related plant that’s oftentimes called mimosa which grows in the southern U.S. and Hawaii. The blooms of this plant are purplish pink and the scent is similar but this is actually the silk tree, not true European mimosa, and not the same species used in perfumery for centuries.

I have three fragrances which showcase mimosa most beautifully; Givenchy Harvest 2007 Amarige Mimosa, L’Artisan Mimosa Pour Moi and Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique.

Givenchy’s Harvest edition is similar to the original Amarige but it is so much better. It’s as if Givenchy highlighted only the best parts and minimized all negative bits of Amarige creating the most gorgeous, mimosa-orange blossom-oriental scent in this galaxy. Mimosa takes the spotlight in this scent and the overall effect is much more delicate and airy and gentle. The original Amarige is known to be a loud scent and while the 2007 Harvest edition does have nice longevity it is a good deal softer and does not pack a wallop like the original. This is a softly spicy and well-blended mimosa scent which is vivacious and flirty instead of girly and innocent like most mimosa scents.

L’Artisan’s Mimosa Pour Moi was a pleasant surprise for me. The surprise being the longevity, which is decent for L’Artisan, and on top of that I would never have expected a mimosa scent to be one of their more tenacious fragrances. Mimosa is generally a light, soft and fleeting aroma but somehow L’Artisan managed to create a scent that is heavenly and even sticks around long enough for me to enjoy it for about 3+ hours.

Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique is actually my favorite mimosa scent. Mimosaique is nothing short of nose nirvana. I wish I could bathe in this stuff, wash my sheets in it, use Mimosaique soap, shampoo, hand cream and burn candles made from it. Maybe it’s just me, but I’m nuts about Mimosaique. Here’s the problem – it’s the most fleeting of these three scents. Yesterday I sprayed Mimosaique on one arm and Mimosa Pour Moi on the other and I could smell the L’Artisan for at least 2 more hours. Patricia de Nicolaï, if you happen to read this, would you please do something about the longevity? I beg thee! Mimosaique is a stunning masterpiece of fresh, sweet, green, airy, delight and happiness. For me, it’s an anti-depressant in a bottle. Utterly beautiful.